Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Infatuation
Infatuation- extravagant passion or love. That's what I have with climbing. Obsessive. Everything. It is a drug. You do it once. Next time you need more. And more. And more. Yesterday despite the winds that lashed our faces Justine, Reese and I made our way out to the boulder gardens. Reese, newly licensed to drive, has made a comeback to climbing. He had climbed when it was just getting big in Cody, a short lived love for many. But after climbing Three times in the last week after at least six months of no climbing and very intermittent climbing before that for the two years previous. He has already almost made the comeback to V3 and also almost did V4. After climbing at the first boulder I stole two pads and made my way over to Spearpoint. Spearpoint is filled with a good many hard routes. A 3, 6/7, 10, 11(Tribal Vibrations, and now another something. The boulder hangs out about 20 degrees from vertical maybe a little more. Many of the routes on this boulder lead to sideways movement, still fantastic, but no straight lines. The last time I was with Mike Snyder at the boulder he pointed out the straight line. Here you start on a flat pad and a half ledge. Cross into a good pocket with you first three fingers on your left. Slide into a pocket with your last three on your right then make a dynamic throw/bump off crappy feet to a tiny half pad three finger crimp. Bring your left to a tiny sloping pinch after throwing in a left heel. Bump. Scream, move with your right to an even smaller crimp that begs to tear into your precious fingers. Bump haha again into a crack system. cross with your left higher into the crack system Toe into a small pocket with your right quick move with your right farther up the crack. A couple more pumpy hand movements and top out. First Ascent. I was so excited. I think this problem is hard really hard. But the most exciting part was doing it. Second- I love naming it. It's still special to et to name things being that I haven't done too many first ascents and like this one the ones that I do are hard. Dan told me I need to name it Pookster. Haha after my girlfriend Amanda called me that the crap has not stopped. So Pookster it is haha. And I think it is a solid 11. Pookster(V11) So sick
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