School is trying to take over my life. I back handed it then told climbing to grab the steering wheel.
So the weekend in the Beartooths, a couple weeks ago, was killer. With a crew of five; Mike Snyder, Clint Cook, Joel Anderson, Aaron Mulkey, and myself, there was a compilation of completely sick sends. The aura of the trip was really cool for me. It was a first overnight trip where we climbed camped and then when morning came again climbed.
When Aaron and I pulled in around one I was ready to crush. Every one else had already had their morning sesh and they were about ready for seconds. We all got psyched and headed of to the first boulder on our itinerary. The boulder had a V5 and a soft V7/8 called Rod of Lordly Might. For some reason I miss heard the routes grade as V2 and V5. So Mike walks up the V5 i thought was a V2. So i hop on all eager to warm up. I find my way to the crux finding myself really struggling to pull through, making it to the top barely. Once at the bottom I made some comments about how stiff of a two it seemed like and i was corrected relieved to hear it wasn't one. The next route, Rod of Lordly Might, showed me some of the most impressive climbing I've ever seen. Clint had been working on it but he is relatively short and it consisted of some big throws so it was really challenging him. After working it for a little bit he gripped down onto the rock set with determination. He makes the first move to not so good sloper, the crux move for me, sets up his feet for the next move and dynos it. Bearing down he hits the next crimp bumps up then moves out right to a crimp at first he couldn't reach it but knowing he had already gotten this far he pushed that two more needed inches. The next move was a real test of balance. He had kept a heel until now and it was too late to change to a tow so after half a minute of struggling he set his muscles all the way to the work and stood up. He had done the route. This has to have been one of the most inspiring things to me, I know there are all those videos out there that you see and they inspire you. But this was different this wasn't a pro this was the average guy that has his weekly sessions with his friends showing you that even when it looks beyond possible its not.
After there we hiked for a while to find this boulder which unbeknownst to us was ripe for first ascents. RIght once we found ourselves slipping on shoes to climb the rain started to come down. Pulling all the pads into the cave we waited out the light shower. I was fired up to try this route that traversed across the bottom on a two foot diameter pipe like feature. Once at the end of this you hit a slopey crimp then rocked out to a small crimp and hucked. Then there was another 10 or so feet of get-you-pumped climbing. Once I finally did this route and topped out I felt like puking since stupidly all I had eaten that day were a handful of almonds and a clifbar.
Well I have to go. I'll finish this story next time.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
I cant get it out of my mind. i can do every move. i would be up working it right now except i need a day of rest. Hoping desperately i can do it tomorrow though i know the anxiousness for getting on the route is better then the actually feeling of sending. its all about the process discovering that secret little sequence that will power you to the top. i finally unlocked the top half havent been able to link it yet. ahh anxious. well until next time. bye
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Ok well its been a year since ive done this kinda crazy to think about all the stuff thats happened since. and to think about what was happening then. I think this blogging thing is kinda silly not gonna lie. i mean who looks at this me? well yah. anyone else? umm doubt it. Im cool with it coach mulkey says its good for everything sponsorship wise. I sent in a resume to Sportiva. i didnt even get a reply kinda disappointing. i dont know what to do about that. i mean rejection ok i can live with that. but i need the tools to find acception. So it would have been nice to have heard what i need to do to make myself look more attractive on paper. People keep telling me go for some lower shoe company. i just want to be like why? i dont like the other shoes company's shoes so thats like being a liar and telling them i love their shoes and want a sponsorship from them. So that leaves me in a predicament a kid with a very limited amount of money trying to buy top of the line shoes. the other company i really want a sponsorship with is prAna. Havent tried but they are amazing. hopefully ill give it a go before summers end. Lately ive been climbing pretty amazing stuff I still cant find anything of which i can get an FA on everything is just right outside my limit. so hopefully ill be there soon though. Today I worked on this bomber Route. amazing. its this route called Tribal Vibrations. Whats really cool about it is the way its set up. the boulder its on is this Volcom stone shape a little more tilted than 70 degrees. The first move is relatively easy the second one is too but then you make an awkward move out to a not very positive pocket. from there you grab this sidepull right below the pocket and throw for this half pad three finger crimp you throw up your right foot and rock out with your right handto this terrible hold. Mike Snyder who wrote the guidebook said it was the smallest hold on the mountain of any established route. from there you slot your hand into a crack thats one of the better holds but still slopey. haha from there i have yet to find out. but im psyched cause the route is amazing. Besides that ive beeen climbing pretty hard I have a V11 and then three V10's and 5 V9's i think. the majority of those done within the last couple months. if you read this. cool. you deserve a doughnut. or something you would appreciate.