Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Reruns and Photos

Tribal Vibrations

Then, Dragon Force: Living in Infamy

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Sloppy Seconds and the Dream Phase

Time and I are at odds.

I need time. Time lets one grow. Without time, I would be forever stuck on this never-ending plateau. But time also limits my growth, for it is not infinite. I have to work within it's set confines.

However, I also am the master of time. I create time, just as each and every other person creates time. Time is unique. Time is only there because a person may perceive a passing moment and record the past. Whereas in truth, there is only the present, hence time does not exist because at any given moment there is only the instant. So perhaps every moment is occurring over and over on different dimensions giving the perception of time.

Either way, I wish time would go slower and give me time to heal and climb. But, the good news is I am back climbing. Taking occasional days of climbing and a week in Joe's (where my peak was No Substance) into account, I took 3 months off of climbing. Currently, I am into my third week of climbing.

The first couple of days were a bit of a challenge. Heck, the days now are a challenge. I was struggling to put down fours. Climbing fours is admirable for a climber. When a person knows that at one point they could do better, but at that moment they can't, it is mildly disheartening. There was however a plus to climbing a maximum grade that I passed in the climbing gym. The situation put me in a position to go to boulders I never had any desire to attack before. I opened up to quite a few boulders I had never been on before. Of the new-to-me boulders, I think my favorite was the Manual labor boulder. There is an awesome 6 called the Pulaski. Sharp holds, great movement.

Other boulders/routes that I jumped on that I would recommend:

Dr.J Boulder- The 4 on there is definitely worth checking out. The rock quality is questionable in place (I broke one of the holds I was thinking about using).

Dragon Force Boulder- This boulder is entering the ranks of the Wretch and Spearpoint (exciting news on Spearpoint to come). With the two routes from last year (there is FDP, Fossilized Dinosaur Poo, and Living in Infamy, graded10 and 10), Marc has added two eights. The Honey Badger (funny, I think I heard that name in another area) and 8000 Beats Per Minute. I would have to say Honey Badger was the better of the two with awesome intro moves into V6 for the finish. I did 8000 BPM by myself. Go there, that's heady.

Ahona Boulder- On Ahona a relatively new route was put up last fall. The route, When Life Gives You Lemons, should be on everyone's ticklist. Following a sloper arete on the right side of the boulder's steep face you move up out left onto the face after falling into a left-hand two finger pocket. You lock into a solid undercling, and then make an enormous throw out to the last pocket on Ahona Verdugo, the eight on the boulder. After doing this route, I am inclined to say it is not a nine, but more of an eight, possibly seven. However, I will say out of all these new routes this was my favorite.

Spearpoint- Although I have no real news about this boulder, I saw a possibility on this boulder that excites me. I thought it was most definitely climbed out. Last year Terry did a new route called something like Spear Chuckin' Baby Throwdown. This route goes the reverse way of Babies for Breafast and up Ho-down Throwdown. Well, if you start on the three and kind of shift up along Tribal Vibrations. Instead of going up though, you hit the start holds of the stand up nine that goes up the obvious crck that moves to the right. From there you sould cross onto this crimp and move to the jug on Ho-down Throwdown. The crimp is on the left side of the right slanted crack. Should be obvious if you look at the boulder. Spearpoint is by far my favorite boulder with the largest concentration of hard climbs.

Spearpoint and Ripper. Best boulders on the mountain.