Monday, July 23, 2012
It's time, time to say something about what I'm doing. __________________________________________________________ First, it's important to admit I raised the white flag on the fourth. I made it to 100.5 points and then was crushed. Four days on, I can accept that. __________________________________________________________ Rewind. 22nd of June, nearly a month ago, I traveled with my dad, Charlie, and Charlie's mom to Fontainebleau. The day we arrived it took till noon to get off the plane and retrieve the rental car. From there, it took 3 hours to travel 61 km to Font. Once in Font., the entire group was starving so we went and ate at a little restaurant on the mainstreet and did my favorite thing, visit the boulangerie. In France, or Europe in general, always eat bread. It is better. It is cheaper. And boy is it cravable. __________________________________________________________ We went to the boulders around six and climbed till ten. Charlie and I did a bunch of moderates, tried Aerodynamite--which at the time we did not know you could jump start it, BASTARDS--jumped on La Balance, and Charlie tried Biceps Mou, a route I did last trip. __________________________________________________________ The day appeared to be classic Font., rain. Charlie and I climbed Voltane a 7b, but outside of that, we were rained out. Charlie found a cool house under a boulder, and there was a route up the side. So awesome. We searched for Rainbow Rocket, but alas no success. A sad time for Charlie, he was bummed. __________________________________________________________ The next day was long and good. But oddly rather unsuccessful. We sent a route dubbed Fake Michael Ange because we thought it was the route. It was not. Outside of that some fun moderates. We also saw this Amazing route called T-Rex a 7c+. __________________________________________________________ Day four, or tuesday, was my rest day, but Charlie wanted to find Hale Bop. So off into the forest we went. It was found, tried, and not quite sent. Oh, and it rained. __________________________________________________________ Day five. It came together. I sent the sit to Aerodynamite, 7c+. We then both did Bivouac Directe, 7c. Charlie then sent both a 7a and a 7b+. I did the 7b+ and decided to skip the 7a. After that, I did the right variation of Bivouac Directe Assis, 7c or 7c+. We then tried the real Michael Ange, which I think would have been doable after another day's work. Next off to the Duel Area. I managed a 7b+ flash, but can't quite remember the name. Next, we worked on some problems. Tried Karma, 8a+, and the Beast, 8a. __________________________________________________________ This was without a doubt the best day of climbing we had the entire trip. __________________________________________________________ The next day Charlie and I were feeling wrecked from the previous day. I climbed Carnage, 7b, in three tries. __________________________________________________________ We then jumped on a 7c+, or what we thought was the route. Sisyphe Assis might be the name. But we both did it much too easily, so it cannot have been the right route. __________________________________________________________ Last in the day, we went to the Biceps Mou boulder and jumped on a left line not in the guide. Oddly it was one of the most logical routes. It felt 7c and took every last ounce of energy. __________________________________________________________ That night we stayed with my parents' friends, Bryce and Yazmil (possibly spelled incorrectly) in Noyer, a little village. __________________________________________________________ That actual night led to quite the late start for the parents the next day. We went to the Karma area around 3pm and left around 5:30. Charlie and I were feeling fresh. FRESH. It started of with the super crimpy vertical 7b+ that I managed to climb. Then on the way to the next boulders charlie did this 7a+. I then managed to spend an inordinate amount of time on this tricky 7b. I can't remember the name--only that it was on the red circuit. Charlie crushed and did a 7b+ or 7c; I can't remember much of what he did. I just know I was jealous because he did more than me. __________________________________________________________ Trip over. Awesome plane ride home. HA. Miserable. __________________________________________________________ Back in the USA I spent a night at Charlie's, and my dad went home. The next day around 5:45 in the morning we started on Charlie's V11 behind his house. Sadly, new beta was found that makes it much easier. The way Charlie originally did it is easily V11, but now the route is in the V9 vicinity. From there, we went to another of Charlie's routes, a V7. I just got angry haha. Never climb this route. So gay. I did not do it. I called Charlie a variety a hateful names, but of course all in good will. I admit, though, I will be happy never to see that route again. Lame Seven is my suggested name for the route. I was put into a much better mood when we went to the next route a crimp face project (most likely, and just because it hadn't been tried). The route was probably V7, and is now titled Rave Ambition. (I was just reading over this and was like, well this is vague. I climbed the Route and named it. Charlie said he thought it was harder. Ya. I couldn't do his seven so it's not harder.) __________________________________________________________ The next day we went to Yankee Jim Canyon. It's pretty sweet this area was developed despite its seeming randomness. Charlie and I climbed Hookers in Training V9. Charlie flashed The Carpenter's Crack. And we both did another V8 down lower the name of which I do not know. We also jumped on Rabbit Hole. __________________________________________________________ Two weeks passed without much commotion. I then went down to Lander for Climbers' Fest with Charlie. We both climbed a 12a. Boss Beans. Outside of that I tried Rodeo Free and damn, no go. Charlie Jumped on Cow Reggae, and I am surprised he did not Waltz up it. __________________________________________________________ The Erratic was our destination on Sunday. I took my pads cause Rope climbing is hard. I climbed Council of Despair, either V10 or 11. Then Charlie jumped on When I was a Young girl I had me A Cowboy. He did all the moves, but did not complete the Link that day. I was once again surprised. Charlie seems to have this short window where he just crushes. Then it closes. __________________________________________________________ On the way back into town, I got a flat. Awesome. Heck yeah! Jim, Charlie's dad, was a great help and the problem was quickly resolved. __________________________________________________________ I didn't think I'd be climbing the next day because I had to have my tire replaced and I needed to talk to the people. We got it to work though. __________________________________________________________ The next day I went to the Falcon's Lair with David Lloyd, Justin, and Ina. The hike in destroyed me. It was only 3.3 miles but enough to tire me. __________________________________________________________ I didn't know if I would ever want to do that again, until I started climbing. We started on the Trolley Boulder. Both David and I did this new route, Seeking Purity V7. I then did another new Route called Train Wreck which was probably a V8. Then, continuing, Justin climbed Cracked Eggs V4. David did a new route called Table Dance V5, and I capped off the day by sending World Conqueror V10. __________________________________________________________ Check out this for France photos and this for Falcon's Lair photos. __________________________________________________________ I did these silly separations because it would not just space for me.