So I read sentences from the previous blog posts. Completely senseless for the most part. That's what happens with 5AM writing lessons I guess. What I'm trying to say is sorry. But the real point of the post is to spray of my new send. No I don't feel like I'm spraying. I feel more like I am trying to spread the joy of what I have felt.
Projecting this route was a challenge for me. I try to avoid projecting. Projecting puts people in a rut. I believe this true in bouldering at least. So since the lander trip which ended july 12th I have been working on this. I have been to tensleep a couple times but never pushing myself to the limit in hope that if i save myself a little i can do this route. Not pushing myself, being a sissy in tensleep, is against my creedo. But it was worth it for a day like yesterday.
I left my house 5:45ish. a little late for my liking but acceptable. I made the ride I think I was hiking in by 6:15. With all of my biking I have noticed I am becoming faster and less tired by it.
I made laps on the usual routes at the cheese boulder and learned I was still feeling quite a bit sore. Can't stop me. From there I traveled the 50 feet to ripper, threw down my stuff and traveled to find my stashed pad.
Oh POO! Pads were missing. Once I had had them blown down 20 or so feet. After scouring the place though, no avail. Stolen. Lame partiers, they've been trashing the place up right around there leaving trash for me to dutifully carry out so assumptions are it was them. If not though they're still lame. Without a pad I continued on. A little down in spirit I finished my warm up. Then grim. My heel still was popping off. I found a trick though to keep it on. And ultimately I prevailed on the finish. FINALLY!! I got to the top screamed yes multiple times and continued on.
Dope is Chrome V13
I feel this route really is a 13. It took so much for me to put it together. And the name that's to signify the pointlessness of this process- the process of projecting. Once I finish a route I am lost. But only for a time until I find my next home.
The next day I did another not so early start, I just went without a pad, to bawitdaba. This is v8 that is so hard. I finally finally did it. But I did it really fast that morning so I was just like what now. Now I am going to rest for the next day (today) and jump on another project. The route is a project on the pistol whip boulder. The first three moves were impossible for me at the beginning of the summer. We'll have to see if anything has changed. But another exciting thing... I'm sure others have noticed. Once I got to the parking lot hiking out I noticed a huge roof in an area where I only know of one route, my dick. But I went up and checked it. There is definitely possibility. And the need for pads. Hopefully somebody will want to check it out with me. Onto the next.
Monday, August 2, 2010
I am awake hoping to get the cool temperatures. I will leave soon hopefully. Another hopeful is my wrist. Dear Climbing gods let it be healed and able. May luck be with me. One day I will have a real climbing blog post. When I do something again haha. so today!!! haha. I need some caffeine. Tea. Climb. My technique of typing power a bunch last time to aid the sending was complete fail so maybe actually saying stuff helps. My body feels well I mean three days off is fantastic. I need to put it down fast or else I will lose fingertips. bye bye