Thursday, February 18, 2010

the rest

The fourth route... It started with a dyno followed by an awkward move to what i would like to call quite the bad sloper. that went out to a positive crimp then crossed into a bubbly red white and blue feature from there you gastoned above you and then reached out to the right to gaston with your other hand. Dropped your left right below to a sidepull and threw to the finish jug. After many tries in that five minutes I finally made it to the last move where I threw to the final jug. My grip failed me but i was exhilarated. The route was absolutely beautiful all the way through. I found out later that day I was in second with Joshua Levin leading. The next day came fast I woke up early planning on being there close after iso's opening. That was bad on my part I ended up warming up a little too much. Excuses excuses. I went out to the first problem, my first mess up. I did not flash it but second try I walked up it. The second route was a flash another steep route. The third, a slab. My greatest fear. My biggest weakness. It took me three tries to complete it at this point I was freaked out I knew I had lost my high standing. It was my fault I had been indecisive and messed up. I was amazed I had done it though because I thought it was a very challenging route. Then the fourth route, another beauty. It moved up a slightly overhanging wall onto a arete then became steeper. Everyone was making it to the same spot. Now if this sounded all negative I am sending the wrong vibe. I was disappointed with the fact I could have done better. I still loved it. It was great and eighth isnt bad right :) well now it is my turn to complain haha. The routes for finals truthfully were not what they should have been right once I was done I felt like this. Each route had concrete cruxes which is not how competition routes like this should be. What I think is proof to this idea is the four way tie that occurred in the top ten. ill post the results after this. But it just didnt feel like a fair ending. so be it though. I cant wait to climb outside. and I get to reset the seventy at our gym that might not be going into complete decay hurray yay yay yay. Thats it for now. Peace.


So on my laptop at my house I have been trying to get on at my house... it has not been able not work at all. Well now in history class I will try to finish my story about ABS 11 nationals
The next day at 9:45 i was off to the comp, iso closed at 10:30. I was up 28th. Nervous and what not I warmed up in iso snacking on clif bars and the other free bars, I am a fan of free stuff. I went out to the first problem. Right once I read the problem I hopped on and flashed it. Thank god that would have been bad to mess up that early in the competition. The next problem was awkward i tried to decipher it as best I could. I made the problem about half way on the first try. Second try I made my corrections and found my way to the top. On the third problem it was a steep roof and there was a possibility for a flash. I made it, flash. The fourth problem looked rather worrisome. It took me a while to figure out the flow of it. There was a dyno for a start move from there was only my guess....

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Nats please

So nationals this weekend, although I would have loved to climb outside this weekend being that it was 40 degrees in cody this weekend, I absolutely loved this weekend.. mixed feelings for after the comp, but not because of the comp. We arrived in DC, we being me and my mom, on thursday. Quite frankly I should have jumped off the DC plane and kissed the ground for the fact that I made it there with the recent conditions of record snowfall in the area. In minneapolis we met up with Amanda, my girlfriend, and i was lucky enough to get to sit next to her on the way to DC. Once in DC we were picked up by my moms grade school friend Mandy, her nickname- shes an amanda too, we went to hotel monaco in downtown alexandria. It was fun, that night we cruised the main street to get the lay of the land and find dinner. The next day was drive by touring of DC. The only museum we went to was the holocaust museum. Fascinating. The only other one I would have been really interested to see was the air and space museum. Then we went and saw memorials. Their just not that amazing. I didnt interact with them. They didnt educate me. They were just there. They are beautiful, dont get me wrong. But it feels like glorifying what we've accomplished. How does that matter in the now? Im sure it does just there are better things. At least they get america walking to and fro haha. But going to see the lincoln memorial being on the hit and run tour we were dropped off at the handicapped area by Mandy and ran up to snap some photos. In the 5 minutes that took the security guards were onto her. so we ran back and booked it. That night we went and checked into the the hotel and checked in for the comp. Now I must go help pack, we are still in DC I think I have free time at the airport for a lil' blogging if not I will try to get on soon. I am getting better I will admit. Dont Jinx

ending the un-ended

Well once I got up there.. I cant remember where I was exactly in my story haha but I warmed up on shyza shyza and then snytonga and moved on to the Hate Satan Proj. I was feeling rather strong for not having been on the route in such a seemingly endless time but after 15 or so tries I had the route's movement back under control, relatively. Once. Just once. I made it all the way to the end with my toe on the jug you need to heelhook so you can hand foot match. But my body would just not let me make that tiny move. Toe to heel. Toe to heel. Next time. ah. Beautiful route. I get excited thinking about it. sometimes I think for a nice day with doing that route I would have given up this weekend.. but i dont know, ill have a chance at doing it hopefully soon if i dont fall into decay because of lack of a gym haha(churning stomach, sick with fear). Currently I dont know what is happening with the gym. If I loose it i face problems. With its current condition I face problems also though. I cant wait for summer. outside is where I want to be. Outside. Sun. Perfect Sandstone Bouldering

Monday, February 8, 2010

Hate Satan Proj.

Saturday's game plan was to wake up early at the 5 train, break, yoga, and train. No way haha. I woke up at 7 easily being that I went to bed at 8:30. Took my time getting ready, lately it seems like I never have calm days. I love it but it does tire my system. By 10 i was walking off to the rock gym supposed to meet this new climber in town who decided a day in the gym would be fantastic. I had done my two traverse laps for an intro to my warmup when i walked outside to make a call. Revelation- It was a balmy 40 degrees, I could climb outside. After a couple moments of elation I hustled out of the rockgym with my stuff called to make my bail phone call and was off to set up the ol' bike and burly(ey?). Call it fortune but my mom offered to give me a ride up cedar(the mountain). Thank god I accepted being that I was considering denial for the fact that it is a great warm up to bike up cedar because on our way up I saw the road was blanketed in snow.
Once at the boulders I threw on my shoes at a 30 foot traverse on an overhang V7, Shyza Shyza. After some sufficient lappage to the end but not overly pushing myself for the go I moved onto Snytonga. Again not wanting to overly exert myself I went for the crux move multiple times but didn't try to catch the sharp crimp. Then it was onto The hate satan roof route.- to be continued

Friday, February 5, 2010

I'm a crappy blogger

Just think I've had this blog what, almost two years and I have possibly 8 posts. But since tribal vibrations the outside progress really has been limited.. real limited. I think I did a couple of v10s. I did however more importantly find a v13ish project to work on. I had it done, every move down, but then winter came. That sends people like myself to use the rock gym as a crutch until winters reign is over. But since I am in the gym I make relatively good use of It. Alexandria Virginia is hosting bouldering nationals for this year next weekend. I fly out with my mom on thursday. The weekend is through valentines day so the fact my girlfriend Amanda will be joining us in Virginia is completely amazing. I've been training hard for the last week haha I'm sure I'm gonna climb at my limit.. maybe not. I hope so though. My goal is to place in the top 10. Later for now. Hopefully I'll update soon. If not, call me a failure.