Friday, March 30, 2012

Some succeed. Some fail.

I am an overachiever; thus, I do both.

I never went to Joe's. Not my fault. We know where the blame lies, but of course, there's no need to culture high quality hatred.

Didn't go to Hueco, or the backup of Moe's, for the same exact reason.

Hint, it's not family related, and I will not rely on that person anymore.

Now that my complaining is out of the way...

Charlie and I do however have plane tickets to Font. More on that later.

I climbed in Cody with Dom and Charlie this past weekend.

Working on this new proj. that Charlie and I first worked on the previous Sunday, I messed up my biceps. Both. Lame. So, I was out for the weekend. But, Charlie and Dom weren't.

The real Crushing began Saturday.

Dom's list:

Riding a Deadman's Harley V11
Deadman's Harley V8
We are the Future FA V10
Snytonga V9
Finger Paint V7

It's worth noting Clambake ate him.

Charlie's list:

Wretched Harley V10
Fingerpaint V7

Previous weekend:

Falling Darkness V9
Black Days V7
Life Wish V8 Second Go
Babies for Breakfast V7 Flash
Spearpoint Crack V9
Studs V8 Flash

I also managed to do the project on Tuesday. It is on the boulder with Life Wish. It starts to the left on a low hold and then goes up into the runnel. Check it.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Something worth writing about-Yes!

This past week has been fantastic. It was my self-declared Spring Break. I started it off in Helena climbing with Dominick, and Charlie came up from Billings Saturday to join.

Friday night, Dominick and I went up to Sheep Mountain. Out of everywhere we went, this was the sickest. The routes really excited me. The first route we went to Dom called a V3. ha. ha. More like five or six. It was an awesome start. Twenty feet over from the first boulder we jumped on a boulder with a project titled Black Pearl. I don't remember any other names. There was a 5/6 problem on there that I quickly dispatched; after that, Dom and I cut our tips on the Black Pearl Project. It is a two move line with an absolutely appealing look. Neither of us did it, but that line, of all the ones we climbed the whole trip, excited me the most. From there we went higher on the mountain to the Rocking-Chair Project. I couldn't do the first move. I tried. Couldn't. Dominick has almost sent the line. It should be something around eleven or twelve when it's done. From there, we went up to a line called Footloose. Luckily, I finished it up right as darkness was taking over, and the night was over.

The next day, Dom and I went with Luke Evans to somewhere near Homesteak Pass down by Butte. Charlie met us at the stop, and together we hiked into the woods. All of us jumped on Montana Beef, and all of us were SHUT DOWN. Dom managed to eek a send out of an 9, which I do not know the name of (prep. ending!). We also jumped on an arete project that I would sometime like to go back and do.

Day three, Charlie, Dom, and I went to the Schoolhouse Area. Charlie destroyed. Dom and I cried. Well I guess I cried; I was so far behind both of them that day.

Charlie's list:
The Playpin V4 Flash
Unknown V6 Flash
Go Fish V7 Third try
Shot Hole V8 Second try
Private Property-Line of Least Resistance V7
Cannibalistic Teachers V9 FA

Dom climbed the same routes too.

Charlie went home that day. I stayed the night hoping to go back to the proj in Butte, but when the next day came, I felt so tired. So, I pussed out.

The, Bang-Dang, I was in Cody, and not climbing the previous day was totally worth it...

I went to the boulder propped up by a tree on the way out the Northfork. Turns out there is cool stuff on there. I started towards the right using the arete, went up a couple moves and crossed across the face. Then, I did it without the Arete. I think without the arete it's like an eight. With the arete, it is probably a 7. Then, I climbed in Stonehedge and went up to Gucci.

Wednesday, I went to Land Beyond for the first time.

Thursday, I went to Bush Draw and then Back up to Gucci.

Saturday, Stonehedge for footage and then Gucci.

The routes (they'll have an X by them if I have done them previously) I have done this week are as follows.

Day 1:
Blackbeard V5/6
Footloose V9

Day 3:
The Playpin V4 Second try
Unknown V6
Go Fish V7 Second try
Shot Hole V8
Private Property-Line of Least Resistance V7
Cannibalistic Teachers V9 Third Ascent

Take time to compare my Day 3 list with Charlie'... I tied... well not if you count flashes. dang.

Day 5:
Unknown V7
Unknown V8
X Shyza Shyza V7
X Snytonga V9
X Finger Paint

Day 6:
TNT V7 Flash
PBX V8 Third or Fourth try.

Day 7:
X The Incumbent V7
X Cherry Tree V8/9

Day 9:
X Finger Paint
X Snytonga

This is huge. For the past three years, I have jumped on Gucci at least twice per year. This has been the hardest route in Cody for me. Something is terribly difficult about it. I would up-rate but I don't know if that's approved of 'round these parts. I did manage to video many of these climbs this week, well the ones in Cody at least. I am concerned about Gucci's video though because I became flustered while trying the route and thus dispatched my clothes-they were annoying me-and I climbed the route in boxers. I don't know if that is public material.

Good week, and there is still tomorrow.