Friday, August 31, 2012
Two tuesdays ago, I climbed in Yankee Jim with Dominick. There, I managed to send Rabbit Hole, V11. I don't feel too descriptive today. __________________________________________________________ The Next day Dom came to Cody and climbed two new routes. These are on the newly dubbed Love God boulder. The short route, V4, Dom called Non-Believer; the extended variation, V4/5, is True Believer. Both these routes are stand-starts on a boulder up the hill from the main fourth-swithchback parking lot. The boulder is in the cluster of larger boulders above the fifth switchback before the Kaiya boulder. I managed to pull off the sit-start to this route. I finished with True Believer. The route starts on a left hand tiny two or three finger pocket with a right hand crimp. It then shoots right onto a tiny ledge. The line, now called Armageddon Savior, should be V11. Later that day, Charlie completed the first ascent of Quarter Pounder, the jump start to Wish I Could Have Gone All The Way. Dominick quickly followed with the second ascent. __________________________________________________________ That night Charlie climbed Powface and Dominick climbed The Joker, downgraded to V6 by Charlie who also completed the line. __________________________________________________________ The following day was rather unsuccessful. Charlie almost sent Dragonflies Dance. Both Dominick and Charlie flashed Hiya, V8. Charlie also scoped out another project on the Love God boulder, which will be bound to create a sick link-up. __________________________________________________________ Charlie and I were the only ones to climb friday. I managed to climb a V11-ish eliminate-ish sit start to Hiya. I was psyched. __________________________________________________________ Guest Speaker Charlie has this to say about his ride home that night: We left Cody at 4:30 and ran out of gas 30 miles out after Kerrek forgot to fill up with gas before leaving. To make a long story short I arrived home much later than expected after getting a friend to bring us gas. __________________________________________________________ ... __________________________________________________________ Ok, this is now two weeks into the school-year. I obviously didn't feel like typing then. I'm going to run through sends, with locations, that I haven't touched on. I just need to get it out, or it's never. __________________________________________________________ Yankee Jim- North of Gardiner MT: Mr. Leslie V6 Gigarete V7 Mrs. Leslie V8 Summer in Paradise V9 The Fin V9 Harmony in Ultraviolet V10 Vanilla Gorilla V11 __________________________________________________________ This was over a two day period with Charlie and Ina. Day three we went to Butte. Charlie was the only one to send. He climbed Montana Chicken V9. We don't know the real name, but it is left of Montana Beef. __________________________________________________________ Back in Cody, I was pressured to send the Pistol Whip Proj. Guess what. It didn't happen. I now have done every move but one. I have not stuck the intense precision move into the start of the stand-start V9. I did however climb a kinda-new route. It does the first two moves of the pistol whip proj and links into the finish of Pistol Whip V8. It'll be called Approaching Infinity V11 or 12. __________________________________________________________ I'm psyched to head back to Cody and climb the proj. It is my only end of the year goal. __________________________________________________________ Currently, in Golden CO, I have climbed outside a couple days. I sent the Animal V9. I have worked on Dark Waters and Mobbin' Around. I am psyched to go back to both. I only got on Mobbin when it was dark. This weekend- Mount Evans.