Sunday, June 27, 2010

no. no way.

Ten Sleep
I went.
Everyone went.
Oh so sick.
Lawrence Hughes sent Crown Prince Abdullah(12d) which he has been working on like a mad man. I was super impressed because to do it i knew he was gonn ahve to pull it all together and do you know what he did- pulled it all together.
Another guy, Zach, sent Aunt Jemima's Bisquick Thunderdome(12d). hahaha.
Manda and I went which was a nice treat. Manda hasn't been so psyched on the whole climbing thing since it seems I am a tad obsessed. So I liked having her there on this gorgeous day. besides that I managed to squeak out some sendage. Alli Rainey last week, when I was there last had been working on this route called Heart Balls and Swagger(HBS). You should already want to get on. Sadly I dedn't get to see her send it that day, but she did. Which is really cool. So after warming up on this pumpy overhanging jug route I take a rather small break. Dan Moncur came, but later than I expected, so before he got there I hopped on a route called Happiness in Slavery. This pumped me the eff out. It was a 12b though so I was like ok who wouldn't pump out going up beta less. So once that was over another break. Dan showed finally two hours late. I pulled out my binoculars to stare at HBS. People climbed. I stared. I wasn't expecting much from myself as I hopped on the route. My shoulders were completely torn up from an intense hangboard sech Friday. A little less than half way, right before the crux I made a z like clip...
Little did I know, lesson learned.
I powered through the lower crux. At the next bolt the insane rope drag was made apparent. It got worse and worse towards the top. Pump and rope drag. It was brutal.
But the result was a flash. I look back right now and go... holy $%#*. I can't climb ropes. But it seems now I can. At least to some degree. Then later after doing Beer Bong an easier route. I jumped on Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle(EKV). I fell at the top I was so pumped. I let myself get lowered then Dan went up hanging a few times to the top. I then Managed the push without a hang.I've decided I only have so many good goes in me before I die. Love. Love. Love. I can't wait for next time.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

a New Era approaches

Summer has shown it's face, for a time at least. I sent terry's route(read previous post). It was sick, so sick. And I went to Ten Sleep. I am in love. In love with it. I did The Burden of Immortality(12d/13a) and Crown Prince Abdullah(12d) both onsight. Going again sunday hoping to crush Dragon Force Proj tomorrow.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Wanted: Summer

So i went climbing with some Canadians in town, Terry Paholek among them. That was sick. He sent a project here and called it The Spearpoint Baby Chuckin' Throwdown(V12). He also crushed Prize Fighter(V10) and some route I forget the name of, don't worry though it was a 10 haha. But with those guys we also traveled up yonder to hop on the Dragon Force Project. Well we found to Projects a sloper one and a sloper crimp one haha. Also we found Danscaping(V6). Selena, Terry's wife sent Danscaping a route with a desperate topout. Terry and I both worked on the projects. I sent one calling it Living in Infamy(V10) and am now left with a sick sloper proj. I can't wait to hop on. I was the only one to manage that send though.
Then yesterday I made my way to tensleep with Amanda. The highlight was Super-Love Bliss Machine(12d) that I sent in two tries. I was psyched cause that's the hardest sport route I've been on.
Tomorrow I will either try the remaining Dragon Force Proj. or Terry's Route. Haha I will have till noon. Then Work. Dang

Tuesday, June 8, 2010


Cody is isolated from the outside world in terms of climbing. It's not a world class destination, though it possibly has more to offer. Think Joe's Valley. Here the routes are just as good if not sometimes better. I just feel isolated. Self pity party, not quite. I just think it would be cool if some strong climbers came here once in a while. Not saying I want to be like Joe's, cause I don't. But sometimes it's cool to have the area you climb at looked at by others and here their response. And I always here grades are sandbagged here. Yes I think Some most definitely are, but i would like to here that from some one that comes from out of town. Just thoughts. I love Cody though, for climbing at least haha. The only thing that might be nice now is more hard projects and a climbing gym. But the truth is I just have to go looking for the routes and they will be there waiting. In the past I've just had stuff handed to me. I need to man up.

Monday, June 7, 2010

Phote Ahs

Antelope boulder two thanksgiving breaks ago

Core's Last Comp

A comp. in Jackson Hole over a year ago.

Wretched Harley(V10) is what i think this one was called photo by Mike Snyder

Prize Fighter(V10)

The Bearded Clam(V9)

Tribal Vibrations(V11)

The Camera(V9/10)

The Cave(V10)

The Assassin(V9) Photo by Mike Snyder

Satan's Soul(V12)

Bawitdaba(V8) Still unsuccessful on this haha Photo by Dan Moncur

Viral Kiss(V8)

The Riddler Project

Friday, June 4, 2010


I like to always be immersed in climbing related things whether that be climbing(my preferred method), reading a guidebook, reading a climbing magazine, reading on the interweb about climbing, or just dreaming about routes. I also like to plan trips that may or may not happen. The thing that chains this all together is the climbing.
So the interweb. People are getting blogs, like this one but more people read them. I assume almost noone reads mine haha but in preparation of that day I keep this. Since people get blogs they need someone to read them, why not me right? Alex Fritz' blog kicks my blogs butt. Everyones does, I must need pictures, that's the key. To have pictures though, someone must take them. Joshua Levin he blogs it hard too. I need to blog it hard.
I don't know if you've seen tthe obvious correlation yet. But people that blog hard about climbing, obviously climb effin' hard. So theoretically if i spend more time blogging I will increase my power possibly tenfold. So sick.
I also have a facebook. Weird I'm a teenager with a facebook. Ok well I was looking through Alex' pictures, like the stalker I am and he had pictures of his room. This is just getting weirder isn't it. Well his room is covered with medals. And I say that to ask is that normal? I have all the medals and stuff, not many, that I haven't lost in a drawer that I never look at. Oh wait I have two ribbons hanging up right beneath my doorway, can you guess? They are participant and competitor ribbons taped back to back haha. Now lets make this clear. I am not ragging on Alex Fritz. It just sounds like we look at things differently. Quite frankly I like Alex Fritz, he's nice to me. It doesn't take much for me to like someone. Besides all that. climbing today. Grim Ripper Project. I'm so psyched. It is this way hard, extremely hard cave. Harder than the other things I've done. I think it's harder than Satan's Soul. But I have all of the sequence unlocked. well except the last couple of move which hopefully won't be the hard part. It's not supposed to be at least. But see yah. Wish me luck. LUCK

Wednesday, June 2, 2010


Ok well it's kinda summer. The rain has still been coming down occasionally, more than that, but the climbing has still been a-go. Besides that I suck at this blogging stuff, hardcore. I am no good for updating on a regular basis. Which is weird since i can sit at the computer and just have Facebook suck the all the time from my life. I should take up baking again. Yes baking, Love it. The downside is the delicious food that you just can't seem to stop eating, who says no to homemade banana bread? My favorite bar type baked good has to be the seven layer bar. Except for the fact when you eat it it's like saying something along th elines of- Screw this, I wanna get pudgy.
And I just can't do quite that. I have a little more pride than that. Peanut butter is my weakness though. ok well i have to go. haha carnival. and groceries. and skin healing.. project going down, hopefully this friday. wish me luck