a lil' bit o' this, a lil' bidda that.

I ride on the psych wave. Sometimes I fall off. Right now, I am riding that wave full force. I have been training and am so psyched to do so. But in other words, the main reason of this post is Mike uploaded a video of the other day when we were at Pistol Whip. http://vimeo.com/16721156 check it.

The right path

Full Gravity Day was awesome. I ended up taking 5th overall. Not quite my goal, haha, but I am still happy with it. Most of all, it was a learning experience I needed now, not later. Dominick Speranza ended up besting me in the finals taking fourth. Sick with it. He's pretty psyched about that. Me, well I'm mainly nervous haha. This is gonna be an exciting go around this year. I'm actually really psyched about it. I'll have to work it up.
Besides that, the next day I journeyed to Pistol Whip. I ran into Mike, Marc, and Clint going to Cornflakes, and they were already heading to Pistol Whip, so I accompanied them. Short story short, we managed to throw down and finish the stand up start for pistol whip. Now the SITTTT, YAHH!!
Besides that, I'm just training, so I can avoid failure. Hah I'm PSYCHED!

Heroes

I have three big climbing heroes. The first is Patxi Usobiaga because I am eternally impressed by his dedication to training. I kind of feel like I'm in the same boat; I think I will have to always train if I want to reach the top and climb with the best of the best at their level. The second is Adam Ondra. He is young and goofy(well it is kinda true haha). He climbs like a mad man though, inspiring in my opinion. Then there is also Nalle who, to me, came out of no where and was just climbing at the top. He also started climbing a little later than most top climbers; I thought that was cool. Now that I think about it, there are a lot of climbers I look up to. Among the larger than life ones are: Alli and Kevin Wilkinson, Joe Kinder, and Jonathan Siegrest. Then of course, even though this isn't actually the point of this blog, are the local climbers who I really feel I owe a thank you to for so many things. Mike Snyder was the guy that took me climbing outside when I really didn't have any climber friends. I can't tell you how appreciative of his patience with a little climber like myself I am. Aaron Mulkey had the largest impact on me. His gym introduced me to climbing (introduction is step number one to obsession). He introduced me to the now deceased climbing team and competitions. Clint Cook is someone who I look up to. He not only pushes his climbing in the midst of an actual life, but he has an attitude towards everything I admire. Leif Gasch: he has had an influence upon my climbing like none other. From him, I learned progression; he showed what training actually was. That it really could be used to make climbing harder stuff a reality. BJ Tilden is one of my biggest heroes. I used to be all worried that I would never receive a sponsorship. Hearing him though, I realize why was I ever worried about that. He climbs extremely hard and has an actual job and no sponsorships. He has chosen to go that way. He loves to climb just to climb. That is how I climb, but I would worry about the idea of a sponsorship. Now I know that doesn't matter. So I am just climbing to be better. That is all I truly worry about now: bettering myself.

Thrilling post

Ok, I don't really have anything to write about, but I need to just give a quick update on this because I think it is appropriate. Downgrades are as follows haha-
Perpetual Motion was a 9 and is now an 8/9.
Hypervelocity star was a 7? and is now a 4.
C.E.O. was a 9 and is now an 8.
Hot Hot Heat, a contrivance, was a 9 and is now an 8.
Heart of a Masochist was a 12 and is now an 11/12.
The last three were personal downgrades. I am fine with downgrades because everything I say is an estimation. And truthfully, I was never a quality grader. An update on me: I still love climbing, and I am learning to experience ecstasy with training. Puh-Pow

The times a changin'

First off, I'm so psyched. I don't think I have ever been this psyched to do anything. All I want to do is to climb, train, and think about climbing. I want to dropout of school and climb. Other areas are calling to me. They say come climb. But I can't do that. School is a must that must be finished. Then college is a must that must be finished. Climbing is must too though. How does that work? Well sadly enough when conflict occurs between climbing and other activities... climbing wins.
This week has been one of success on the climbing front and on the school front. I have the hardest part of my prposal for building an electrical generator done. Anatomy and Physiology homework was completed. Most importantly, I trained like a mad man.
Last weekend though on sunday, my third day on, I sent the project in the newness. I don't really have any pictures; yes, I do; but they aren't amazing. This route is a four move wonder. with three definitely hard moves- the first move you go off a sloper onto an open hand crimp pinch. Making a cross way out onto a steep lip, you grab this super crap sloper. You then throw in a toe and heel to make this huge wild swing move out to another crap sloper. Both feet cut, and you make a crazy campus move to a flat ledge. From there, it's over. Just a calm walk to the lip. I feel hesitation taking over whenever I try to rate routes. Where is the person to confirm stuff for me? Confusion. Confusion. Confusion. I'm going to call the line Heart of a Masochist with a hypothetical grade of V12.
Now it has been a week or so since that day. I've climbed outside twice since then. In those two days, I found my new project. The route is on a boulder that has a V9 and two projects so psyched. Train, Climb, Train, Climb.

Loss O' Time

School= Time KILLEEEERRR. Down with school. Down with N-Tell-Egence. So despite the fact school hath been stalking me out trying to ruin my life, I have been managing. In between trips to Cedar to check out the marvelous there has been growth. I went with Drew Haman to this spectacular new area and proceeded to have one of the best days of climbing ever. We put up tons of new problems for one day. Ranging V5-V9 which definitely put me right to bed when I went home. Sleep. Sleep. Sleep. The next week was filled with hangboarding. The weekend came back and gave lift to new hope. Off to do the new for another sweet day. I finally managed to send this beautiful route that had been shunting me at the end of the last session. It is a beautiful highball with a bouldery crux in the beginning and a second crux at the tippy top. Definitely highbally, absolutely stellar line though. Perpetual Motion V9. The fun was cut short by my need to be present at my job.
I then took three days off cause of hangboard motivation issues.. this has to be common. Then went to the Newness another time. This time I had the pleasure of checking out the boulders, two, super low. So one line i think I can confirm as undone went up. A super sick v5 arete. The off to check out this crazy roof boulder Drew showed me. He had pointed out this line on the small of the roof that had looked cool but not attention grabbing. It turns out after working it Drew has an eye for great lines. Hard line. It's a true boulder problem; there is 4 crux moves then a hopefully easy top out.
Another day of training blahbbity blah then a morning to the magic again. All before noon haha. I went with Jason who has been psyched on climbing here(newness). I met Jason a while ago when the gym was open. We never really climbed together much; we weren't mean to each other, but he was kind of an unknown for me. When we climbed together with Drew in the Newness he flabbergasted me. I hadn't climbed with him since winter in Dylan's, but he absolutely crushed. He was pulling moves on Perpetual Motion with ease. So I got his number; hopefully we keep climbing together. I love it when people are psyched and just want to get better and better. He has that attitude and is willing to work for it. BOMB. Back to story- we went out, a new problem was done, sweet dynamic v4. Projecting that line some more, I found myself actually slapping and swinging of the move I couldn't stick at all last time. Awe! Such a cool line. After progress on the cruxy route front, we hiked for almost two hours scouting the boulder field. We found mild potential. Jason found this little clump of bouldering after an hour or so. This is where we found the good lines. Two, in my opinion, to be exact these boulder crisscrossed on top of each other. The lower one is this crazy slate like rock. There is possibility for breakage along with sweet route. I didn't give it much consideration, maybe a 7, because I was immediately enthralled with this other line. I can't even explain how beautiful it is. Just crimps along an angle formed by two faces of this boulder. I cant wait to try it; I need to finish up that other problem first though.
Now in between sentences I am hangboard training. I am excited for tomorrow because I will be climbing. I'm going with Jason to his project: Clambake. A supre cool route I think it V10. Maybe I'm getting soft haha cause everyone calls it 9.. I don't know if those people have actually done it though? But sickness off to work at 9. Oh and I still don't have a wall built. In between school, climbing and work I have seemingly miniscule amounts of free time. Climbing outside though- ahh the psych.

Set Free

So I read sentences from the previous blog posts. Completely senseless for the most part. That's what happens with 5AM writing lessons I guess. What I'm trying to say is sorry. But the real point of the post is to spray of my new send. No I don't feel like I'm spraying. I feel more like I am trying to spread the joy of what I have felt.
Projecting this route was a challenge for me. I try to avoid projecting. Projecting puts people in a rut. I believe this true in bouldering at least. So since the lander trip which ended july 12th I have been working on this. I have been to tensleep a couple times but never pushing myself to the limit in hope that if i save myself a little i can do this route. Not pushing myself, being a sissy in tensleep, is against my creedo. But it was worth it for a day like yesterday.
I left my house 5:45ish. a little late for my liking but acceptable. I made the ride I think I was hiking in by 6:15. With all of my biking I have noticed I am becoming faster and less tired by it.
I made laps on the usual routes at the cheese boulder and learned I was still feeling quite a bit sore. Can't stop me. From there I traveled the 50 feet to ripper, threw down my stuff and traveled to find my stashed pad.
Oh POO! Pads were missing. Once I had had them blown down 20 or so feet. After scouring the place though, no avail. Stolen. Lame partiers, they've been trashing the place up right around there leaving trash for me to dutifully carry out so assumptions are it was them. If not though they're still lame. Without a pad I continued on. A little down in spirit I finished my warm up. Then grim. My heel still was popping off. I found a trick though to keep it on. And ultimately I prevailed on the finish. FINALLY!! I got to the top screamed yes multiple times and continued on.

Dope is Chrome V13

I feel this route really is a 13. It took so much for me to put it together. And the name that's to signify the pointlessness of this process- the process of projecting. Once I finish a route I am lost. But only for a time until I find my next home.
The next day I did another not so early start, I just went without a pad, to bawitdaba. This is v8 that is so hard. I finally finally did it. But I did it really fast that morning so I was just like what now. Now I am going to rest for the next day (today) and jump on another project. The route is a project on the pistol whip boulder. The first three moves were impossible for me at the beginning of the summer. We'll have to see if anything has changed. But another exciting thing... I'm sure others have noticed. Once I got to the parking lot hiking out I noticed a huge roof in an area where I only know of one route, my dick. But I went up and checked it. There is definitely possibility. And the need for pads. Hopefully somebody will want to check it out with me. Onto the next.

the fourth day

I am awake hoping to get the cool temperatures. I will leave soon hopefully. Another hopeful is my wrist. Dear Climbing gods let it be healed and able. May luck be with me. One day I will have a real climbing blog post. When I do something again haha. so today!!! haha. I need some caffeine. Tea. Climb. My technique of typing power a bunch last time to aid the sending was complete fail so maybe actually saying stuff helps. My body feels well I mean three days off is fantastic. I need to put it down fast or else I will lose fingertips. bye bye

touchy topic

So along with a crashpad from my girlfriend for my birthday i also received a little trip to lander. So the first day I wanted to try my luck on rodeo free a 14. I thought it was possible. I was running warm up laps on it until bam, rip.

I tried again but the tape just made it a no go. sad. So instead of fretting I instead worked on getting psyched for the next day. And I did. oh I did. I was so psyched to go and crush and I went warmed up jumped on a 13 attempting to onsight. locking off on a 2 finger some pops happened. So now I have time off. Unsuccesfull trip. though Dan was impressive and worked that 13, When I was a young girl I had me a cowboy, all the way to the last bolt. But we had all lost psych a bit. next time.

POW-er

power power power power power power power power power power power power power

Alpinismo

Yah so hot hot heat. i'm up for what I now know as the Alpine Start. haha I'm uneducated. Get it while it's sticky. The route has been feeling great. Last time I made a little more progress. Now I just have to push it that much more. But today is also threatening me with hotter temps. Live with it. I guess haha. Energy is flowing from me. Now I just need to focus it.

UP UP AND AWAY

So Ten Sleep was semi-bummer. I went with my uncles which was cool. We climbed at a slower pace than when it's Manda and I. I was fine with that. The only thing i once we got to my route.. Rain. It was fun though. My uncles loved it which really made the day for me. i was worried about leading them to a dissappointment. Today I'm gonna have a nice early morn sesh. Grim Ripper is in my grasp. I just have to clench down. Preferably sooner rather than later haha

Freaked out

Summer is running out. my dad still hasn't helped me with the wall. i am freaked. Besides that progress yesterday.. new high point. Today Ten Sleep. Climb while you can. Sucka. aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh

Polytheistic Religion of Climbing

So I been working on the grim ripper proj. Not getting anywhere on it really. though hopefully today I do. Maybe send? Ahh it's so hard. The moves
Just shut you DOWN. It's been what I've been going to and working on since my last Ten sleep trip. The movement on the route is beautiful. The problem is a mastery of compression with a minor in expansion. So challenging. The first couple of moves probably come in at v7 or 8. then you hit a v10 move. then v(way beyond me) and another and a couple v10 moves then v8 finish. rough. I'm still pretty psyched though. And today is my birthday so I will be wishing for serious birthday luck. Besides that the coolest new thing I've jumped on was the low low start to lewis town pharmacy. A cool problem Clint showed me. I think it clocks in at solid 9. Clint, during my solitude, has been crushing. He sent this thing on the wretch.. a route I can never remember the name of that I think is a 10. He's climbing strong. Now he needs to get on the sit v11 and crush. I just realized if you compare that 11 to some of the things i've done I'm sandbagging. Power to the People. I never want to grade too high.
Today I'm also gonna go check this new cave out next to dragon force (ps new line on dragon force harder than the others). This cave is sick although back breaker rocks are numerous, the chossy juggy stuff has been climbed. but the real potential awaits in the nice rock. Small hold. Multiple lines. Psych. Day of SEEEEND. Make a prayer to the climbing gods. Dear Climbing Gods. May we send.

Sicky Gnar Gnar

After a shaky ride in the ol' red suburban we had made our way to Ten Sleep. The hike up all the way to the Superattic was absolute fun as always. Amanda jumped on a 9 for her first lead ever which was super cool because she didn't get psyched out up on route. Then we made our way to the Great white Behemoth a 12b I had done last time. Gave a warm up lap then waited....
After sufficient waiting I jumped on He Biggum. Sadly though it was still in the sun so at one point I just couldn't see where to go. That run ended up just being one to hang the draws. I then watched Dominick Speranza jump on great white behemoth. He made it to the top and had it figured out. Since he's more of a boulderer(?) he was pumped silly. I then hopped back on He Biggum and sent. Oh so sick. Then I sent Canadian Jackhammer second go. I'm so stoked for ropes now. bouldering doesn't even have extreme appeal now. but come time it will. Besides I'm going bouldering today.

BAP!

Ten Sleep. Again today.
Lander was amazing overall met up with old friends. I consider them friends at least although they might think of me as some little kid. Amanda did amazing. She is willing to get on stuff way over her head which is a huge accomplishment. I on the other hand am still scared to take lead falls on featured or not so steep terrain. But I am doing better I took some 20 foot whippers, scary ones cause you fall alongside this huge rock. I met Jonathan Siegrest and Paige Claassen. It's really col that people like that (sponsored) are not al big and bad. they climb with the normal folk. Also met Joey Kinder. Just fun weekend. Managed to throw the stick on four 13's. Not quite a 14 though I will be going back before summer's end to deal with that unfinished business. But for today Ten Sleep. Bomber

Lander my dude.. ICF

So umm best vacation ever. Ya. I went with Manda which made for an amazing time. The first day we got there we bought our tickets and a guide and ran off to the Rodeo Wave. The wall has many hard routes in just one little area. After onsighting the most challenging 12a ever we're off to the wave. It just so happens that Leif Gasch was at the rodeo wall along with the now infamous Ronnie Jenkins, the sicky gnar gnar FiveTen rep. I found my first project Atomic Cow a 13d. This was my goal, to climb a 13d. That day I was unsuccessful, the next day I made it though. Ok not feeling like typing I'll do more later haha bye

I don' reed guud

Ten Sleep is where I seem to only climb now. I went friday, haven't climbed since... wazzup wit' dat. Work that's what I have worked 8 9 hour shifts in the last 9 days. I'm 15... What the eff!? I'm really anal about my climbing. any time off I can literally feel strength seeping from the pores in my skin. Evaporating with my sweat. AND I HATE IT. If I can't make going outside work i will train on my hangboard. That sucks. Sorry about the ranting. Now the fun stuff. double whammy.
Last time in Ten Sleep I ran into quite a few grumpy couples. The first ones where Amanda and I wanted to climb first. We get to the insect corner, we ask is this the insect corner? Yes. Can we climb here with you guys? Well There's two routes here and 5 of us.
Really I mean c'mon. Share. So Amanda didn't get to climb until way later in the day. I had to warm up on great white behemoth a 12b. That hard of a route should have a label next to it saying not for warm up. Some how I onsighted it. That was like psych oh yeah. Then i wanted to jump on incredible horsecock or he biggum fucked. but both were in the sun at the time and draws were already hanging on Hellion(except for one) so i was like screw it I haven't done this yet. Sadly no onsight haha. But i did do it in three trys. I love this route. three time better than Heart, Balls, Swagger. Beautiful line. No not three times better thats a lie. I only say that because it's my most recent route. By then He Biggum was in the shade. so I worked it. NO success that day. I was too drained after Hellion. So I worked it to the top. Next time I think it's possible. But I have a different route I really want to do next. The 13th if Kevin doesn't bail. But now off to lander for 5 days so sick so sick. International Climbers Festival. I love climbing. No doubt.
Outside climbing man. so much better than comps. I like comps, but outside- it's the Super-Love Bliss Machine.

The FA

GEtting a first ascent leaves me with mixed feeling. I love that exploration into the unknown. Questioning if the problem really is going to be possible. But there is a downside for me. Once the route is done I feel like I need to rate the route. When I do this I generally underestimate to be safe, but I would rather not rate it at all. Why I do is because I have been looking to get a sponsorship. If I don't grade the problem i worry I won't recieve recognition.. blah bitty blah. So I did That other Dragon Force project Monday. I'm gonna call it Fossilized Dragon Poo(FDP). And say it's a V10 because I feel no one could argue to down grade. Isn't it funny how so many of the things I do I rate 10. I'm scared to go higher. I was thinking about 11 for FDP which would be cool. I need someone else's input. Well just some thought. Come climb in cody anyone(who doesn't trash the area haha).

no. no way.

Ten Sleep
I went.
Everyone went.
Oh so sick.
Lawrence Hughes sent Crown Prince Abdullah(12d) which he has been working on like a mad man. I was super impressed because to do it i knew he was gonn ahve to pull it all together and do you know what he did- pulled it all together.
Another guy, Zach, sent Aunt Jemima's Bisquick Thunderdome(12d). hahaha.
Manda and I went which was a nice treat. Manda hasn't been so psyched on the whole climbing thing since it seems I am a tad obsessed. So I liked having her there on this gorgeous day. besides that I managed to squeak out some sendage. Alli Rainey last week, when I was there last had been working on this route called Heart Balls and Swagger(HBS). You should already want to get on. Sadly I dedn't get to see her send it that day, but she did. Which is really cool. So after warming up on this pumpy overhanging jug route I take a rather small break. Dan Moncur came, but later than I expected, so before he got there I hopped on a route called Happiness in Slavery. This pumped me the eff out. It was a 12b though so I was like ok who wouldn't pump out going up beta less. So once that was over another break. Dan showed finally two hours late. I pulled out my binoculars to stare at HBS. People climbed. I stared. I wasn't expecting much from myself as I hopped on the route. My shoulders were completely torn up from an intense hangboard sech Friday. A little less than half way, right before the crux I made a z like clip...
Little did I know, lesson learned.
I powered through the lower crux. At the next bolt the insane rope drag was made apparent. It got worse and worse towards the top. Pump and rope drag. It was brutal.
But the result was a flash. I look back right now and go... holy $%#*. I can't climb ropes. But it seems now I can. At least to some degree. Then later after doing Beer Bong an easier route. I jumped on Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle(EKV). I fell at the top I was so pumped. I let myself get lowered then Dan went up hanging a few times to the top. I then Managed the push without a hang.I've decided I only have so many good goes in me before I die. Love. Love. Love. I can't wait for next time.

a New Era approaches

Summer has shown it's face, for a time at least. I sent terry's route(read previous post). It was sick, so sick. And I went to Ten Sleep. I am in love. In love with it. I did The Burden of Immortality(12d/13a) and Crown Prince Abdullah(12d) both onsight. Going again sunday hoping to crush Dragon Force Proj tomorrow.

Wanted: Summer

So i went climbing with some Canadians in town, Terry Paholek among them. That was sick. He sent a project here and called it The Spearpoint Baby Chuckin' Throwdown(V12). He also crushed Prize Fighter(V10) and some route I forget the name of, don't worry though it was a 10 haha. But with those guys we also traveled up yonder to hop on the Dragon Force Project. Well we found to Projects a sloper one and a sloper crimp one haha. Also we found Danscaping(V6). Selena, Terry's wife sent Danscaping a route with a desperate topout. Terry and I both worked on the projects. I sent one calling it Living in Infamy(V10) and am now left with a sick sloper proj. I can't wait to hop on. I was the only one to manage that send though.
Then yesterday I made my way to tensleep with Amanda. The highlight was Super-Love Bliss Machine(12d) that I sent in two tries. I was psyched cause that's the hardest sport route I've been on.
Tomorrow I will either try the remaining Dragon Force Proj. or Terry's Route. Haha I will have till noon. Then Work. Dang

Iso(Lation)

Cody is isolated from the outside world in terms of climbing. It's not a world class destination, though it possibly has more to offer. Think Joe's Valley. Here the routes are just as good if not sometimes better. I just feel isolated. Self pity party, not quite. I just think it would be cool if some strong climbers came here once in a while. Not saying I want to be like Joe's, cause I don't. But sometimes it's cool to have the area you climb at looked at by others and here their response. And I always here grades are sandbagged here. Yes I think Some most definitely are, but i would like to here that from some one that comes from out of town. Just thoughts. I love Cody though, for climbing at least haha. The only thing that might be nice now is more hard projects and a climbing gym. But the truth is I just have to go looking for the routes and they will be there waiting. In the past I've just had stuff handed to me. I need to man up.

Phote Ahs

Antelope boulder two thanksgiving breaks ago


Core's Last Comp


A comp. in Jackson Hole over a year ago.


Wretched Harley(V10) is what i think this one was called photo by Mike Snyder


Prize Fighter(V10)


The Bearded Clam(V9)


Tribal Vibrations(V11)


The Camera(V9/10)


The Cave(V10)


The Assassin(V9) Photo by Mike Snyder


Satan's Soul(V12)


Bawitdaba(V8) Still unsuccessful on this haha Photo by Dan Moncur


Viral Kiss(V8)


The Riddler Project

Stalker

I like to always be immersed in climbing related things whether that be climbing(my preferred method), reading a guidebook, reading a climbing magazine, reading on the interweb about climbing, or just dreaming about routes. I also like to plan trips that may or may not happen. The thing that chains this all together is the climbing.
So the interweb. People are getting blogs, like this one but more people read them. I assume almost noone reads mine haha but in preparation of that day I keep this. Since people get blogs they need someone to read them, why not me right? Alex Fritz' blog kicks my blogs butt. Everyones does, I must need pictures, that's the key. To have pictures though, someone must take them. Joshua Levin he blogs it hard too. I need to blog it hard.
I don't know if you've seen tthe obvious correlation yet. But people that blog hard about climbing, obviously climb effin' hard. So theoretically if i spend more time blogging I will increase my power possibly tenfold. So sick.
I also have a facebook. Weird I'm a teenager with a facebook. Ok well I was looking through Alex' pictures, like the stalker I am and he had pictures of his room. This is just getting weirder isn't it. Well his room is covered with medals. And I say that to ask is that normal? I have all the medals and stuff, not many, that I haven't lost in a drawer that I never look at. Oh wait I have two ribbons hanging up right beneath my doorway, can you guess? They are participant and competitor ribbons taped back to back haha. Now lets make this clear. I am not ragging on Alex Fritz. It just sounds like we look at things differently. Quite frankly I like Alex Fritz, he's nice to me. It doesn't take much for me to like someone. Besides all that. climbing today. Grim Ripper Project. I'm so psyched. It is this way hard, extremely hard cave. Harder than the other things I've done. I think it's harder than Satan's Soul. But I have all of the sequence unlocked. well except the last couple of move which hopefully won't be the hard part. It's not supposed to be at least. But see yah. Wish me luck. LUCK

Summer?

Ok well it's kinda summer. The rain has still been coming down occasionally, more than that, but the climbing has still been a-go. Besides that I suck at this blogging stuff, hardcore. I am no good for updating on a regular basis. Which is weird since i can sit at the computer and just have Facebook suck the all the time from my life. I should take up baking again. Yes baking, Love it. The downside is the delicious food that you just can't seem to stop eating, who says no to homemade banana bread? My favorite bar type baked good has to be the seven layer bar. Except for the fact when you eat it it's like saying something along th elines of- Screw this, I wanna get pudgy.
And I just can't do quite that. I have a little more pride than that. Peanut butter is my weakness though. ok well i have to go. haha carnival. and groceries. and skin healing.. project going down, hopefully this friday. wish me luck

the letter 3

3 is perfect. Not quite a letter though, I'll admit. A triangle of 3 is always strong. Well 3 days of school are left. And right now that's just perfect. Tomorrow when only two are left. That will be the new perfect. When one is left the newest perfect. And once there are no numbers left that will be perfection. This weekend was a god send of sorts. On Thursday I made a happy little trip to the doctor's office. The reason for my visit was to check up on my abs. I have been concerned for quite some time with the possibility of a hernia. So skip to the point, no hernia. I was so relieved, extremely relieved. Friday I went climbing, when I first got to the crag I was feeling way too out of it. I pumped myself out a couple times warming up then went into a rather long break. On my first try doing the traverse project at the carcass crag I sent. Holy Crap. I barely did it my arms were so pumped at the end. From there we went to the Wretch I did the project on there also. Two projects one day glorious. But might it get better, oh it might. Myself and Amanda went to Clambake, a project I've had for quite some time. I was sticking the crux move that I had never been able to stick before. Realizing this was possible I started to get a wee bit jittery. After a couple more attempts I was hit with the fact I'm skipping a move. Oh @#$% ! I tried to do it with that move but by that time my muscles were weak. Oh yah I was sick that day too. It was 5 in the afternoon and all I had had was two bowls of oatmeal because it was all I could keep down.
Sunday I went out again. yippee. I did clambake, but my fingers were sadly enough sissies. That meant for a short sesh, tore a hole in ye' old finger. Hopefully I won't have thin fingers next time.. hopefully tomorrow if there is no rain right. Well wish me luck

the list

So summer is very near. I hope this upcoming week of forecasted storms and snow will be the grand opening to the sunshine and warmth. This weekend I managed to sneak in two days of climbing. The second day, a wee bit short, but climbing none the less. I tore it up on the hangboard on friday which was a silly idea with the weekend approaching. Saturday morning hit and hit it did. My whole upper body was sore. I went out with Reese and Justine to the batcave where everyone seems to have desire to go now days. Now we get to the exciting part. I climbed a route, Presto, I put on my list. I made a twenty-some problem list of to do routes in cody for this summer. Some are V8 and other are much much harder, projects. My goal is every weekend to get on at least one those routes and make maybe a little progress. Hopefully by the end of the summer that whole list is almost crossed off. It will give me a little organization and hopefully help keep motivation high.
Sunday I went out with Dan who is now working the problem twoface a sandbagged V7. He kept making it through the crux move but falling shortly after. So close. Hopefully next time though all goes as planned.

Infatuation

Infatuation- extravagant passion or love. That's what I have with climbing. Obsessive. Everything. It is a drug. You do it once. Next time you need more. And more. And more. Yesterday despite the winds that lashed our faces Justine, Reese and I made our way out to the boulder gardens. Reese, newly licensed to drive, has made a comeback to climbing. He had climbed when it was just getting big in Cody, a short lived love for many. But after climbing Three times in the last week after at least six months of no climbing and very intermittent climbing before that for the two years previous. He has already almost made the comeback to V3 and also almost did V4. After climbing at the first boulder I stole two pads and made my way over to Spearpoint. Spearpoint is filled with a good many hard routes. A 3, 6/7, 10, 11(Tribal Vibrations, and now another something. The boulder hangs out about 20 degrees from vertical maybe a little more. Many of the routes on this boulder lead to sideways movement, still fantastic, but no straight lines. The last time I was with Mike Snyder at the boulder he pointed out the straight line. Here you start on a flat pad and a half ledge. Cross into a good pocket with you first three fingers on your left. Slide into a pocket with your last three on your right then make a dynamic throw/bump off crappy feet to a tiny half pad three finger crimp. Bring your left to a tiny sloping pinch after throwing in a left heel. Bump. Scream, move with your right to an even smaller crimp that begs to tear into your precious fingers. Bump haha again into a crack system. cross with your left higher into the crack system Toe into a small pocket with your right quick move with your right farther up the crack. A couple more pumpy hand movements and top out. First Ascent. I was so excited. I think this problem is hard really hard. But the most exciting part was doing it. Second- I love naming it. It's still special to et to name things being that I haven't done too many first ascents and like this one the ones that I do are hard. Dan told me I need to name it Pookster. Haha after my girlfriend Amanda called me that the crap has not stopped. So Pookster it is haha. And I think it is a solid 11. Pookster(V11) So sick

The Fantasy

I used to fantasize about sex. Things changed. I fantasize about climbing.
The moves run laps in my head. The brilliance of the possibility. The idea I might be able to take the moves combine them and find the way to completion. Tomorrow feels like a lifetime away. Like I am waiting for the most amazing moment in my life. All that awaits me is another route upon which I draw my life force from for the time being. It is constantly inspiring me. It is nothing new. Yet something I have never encountered in my life before. Climbing's inspiration it lends to the soul is unexplainable.
The summer brings hope for me. I have much to do. Much to accomplish. I plan to climb to my limit. As much as possible. As hard as possible. Quite frankly the developed routes are running slim for me. This summer will involve pushing the limits of Cody bouldering as far as I can. With Satan's Soul I have already set the summit at a higher point. My goal is to keep pushing the limits farther and farther.
Another note upon which to remark is Dan Moncur. A climber originally from Casper, Wyoming who is now going to college in the nearby Powell. His winter was not filled with climbing being that he didn't have access to much of a gym anywhere. No one really did. But now that he's back on the rock he is psyched. And crushing. We have been going out when he has had the chance and he has already started putting to rest some of Cody's hard problems. Yesterday he walked up the super crimpy Hot Buns Stuffed, V9. I was blown away. An incredibly impressive send. I can't wait to keep climbing with him and see what else he might put down this summer.

Joe's Valley?

I've never been good with this. Recently I've been climbing before that spring break in Phoenix with my grandparents. I just had a 5 days in a row climbing spree. How amazing is that? So amazing. But back to Joe's. I caught a ride down there with some Helena(MT) climber's, the Speranza's, so the trip in total was made by myself, Dominick II(the dad) and III(son), and Duncan Ellis. The first night we slept there was semi-hell for me. I have rather poor circulation and during a cold night it shows. I spent most of the night awake trying make sure my toes didn't fall off and just tried to keep relatively warm. Our first day was going to be spent at Area 51. Worries fluttered about me when I thought of climbing and my lack of sleep. We arrived to the boulders about ten-ish the sun beating down on our backs. I quickly stripped down into my capilene. After warming up on a boulder I neglected to find the name of we moved on to Resident Evil. The problem was a wee-bit hard haha. It took a good many goes goes but i finally sent it. Black Lung, the thought of the climb had always excited me. I wanted to try it with my all, but I felt that with this trip I wouldn't be able to do it at all. I tried it a few times though. I think given another year and maybe a couple days there the send wouldn't be to hard to do. Dominick sent the V8 that was a shorter version of resident evil. But we decided to move on for the day. We drive to fingerhut. Now talking about this it seems like we went to Resident Evil climbed and left all within a tiny time period. But oh no we didn't, it was time consuming. Fingerhut was not a-go our tips were shredded so we moved onto the scrawny and brawny boulder. Everyone else was pretty much psychless by this time, except me. I flashed the route called Not so Brawny, I think that's its name but the crimps on Scrawny and Brawny felt like tiny little needles poking into my hands by this time. I bit through the pain and did the first move matched but then botched my sequence. Sadly I left this route undone. We returned to camp tired and ready for dinner. Once night approached we happily made our way to bed.
The next day was started later being that we were tired. Our first stop was the boulder with they call him jordan. Myself and Dominick dispatched Wills A Fire but after that they call him Jordan felt just like to much dynamic movement and our guides gave us no clue as to what the routes were on the left most side of the boulder. We made use of our time and instead of being squabblers we made our way onto the riverside area. The angler was done by all. Myself and Dominick worked Feels like Grit. Talk about hard. That took my all but finally I found myself to the point of topping out. Dominick was psyched but couldn't manage to piece it together. Up the hill to Big Joe was our next destination. This boulder is huge. I did Big Joe in two tries then gave Nerve Extension some all out goes. Dominick and I also tried smoking joe from the start a couple times but he and I quickly reverted to working Big Joe and nerve Extension respectively. It was late when we called it quits and time to return to camp.
The third day was a rap up day. We were all trashed and knew today couldn't last long. I think next time I want to take a week trip where we have 2 on 1 off 2 on. The other days would be travel. First we went back to area 51. Dominick wanted desperately to do Resident Evil. He impressively did it in like 4 tries that day right once he did that we were outa there and went back to Big Joe. In two tries I did nerve extension. Super psych and then after a coupe tries I did smoking Joe. Super duper psych. DOminick also did Big Joe. Every one was ready to leave here now no one else was down for climbing more. But we went to the boy size area. After letting Dominick's dad get on some slab we tried boy size. Hard as crap was how that felt. I almost almost almost had it but I left it undone. We went to camp quickly disassembled it and made the long drive home.

Joe's Valley

More to come.. but it happened. oh yes it did

A thanks?

I wanted to say thanks to the people that inspired me to never give up on climbing, who were always there to push me a little harder yet always back me in a positive way. Some people at the top of that list are my Mom-Rene, Dad-Laurence, Aaron Mulkey- truthfully if not for him I would be absolutely nothing, Mike Snyder- nobody wants to be stuck in the gym forever right, and Leif- my idol (from the sounds of things he's living the dream). Then there are the many other climbers from Cody that have influenced me and also the climbers pushing the limits worldwide that inspire everyone like Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, and Adam Ondra. The company that keeps me supplied with the neccessary: La Sportiva.

Satan's Soul

After a lot of hard work, and support from people like Mike and the climbing posse I finally sent my project. Here are some pictures taken by Aaron Mulkey-

This route is on a completely different level from all the other routes I have done. BJ Tilden who had worked on the route before said it was on par with all the other V12's he had done if not harder. So being that this is an FA I was left in the awkward position of grading it, and naming it-how cool. I decided that Satan's Soul was a fitting name being that it was on the Hate Satan Boulder and V12 a proper grade.- more later.. peace.. so sick

It's not the end, only a new beginning.

My life was a near perfect synonym for chaos recently. Ok, well not that bad. Just I wont be saying it was that good. I mean how would you feel if your climbing gym was torn into pieces right in front of your eyes. I have to move on. This was a huge hit for me. I know that now days lots of older climbers diss on the kids that sprout from the gym, so I know it may possibly be me that that's against but I love the gym. It gave my life meaning. Going into sixth grade I was a little chub. After 4(maybe 5) years climbing really has made a big difference in that. Climbing definitely hasn't just been a physical improvement. Most definitely not. It has taught me to be persistent, to not give up and give it that extra burn. It has done nothing but better me, and I am unendingly grateful for that. Haha well there is one thing, it made me a tad bit obsessive you could say. I could tell you bout the extravagance of climbing for pages but I will save you. Instead we can talk about what this means for me because thats what we are here for, it's my blog, riiiiighT?
After Nationals I took a week off gained some weight, ate some girl scout cookies(two boxes in one night), and took a chill pill. The weather was rather frigid so getting back to climbing meant finding somewhere besides outside or the gym to climb(heating bills are for sissies). The only option I was aware of was Dylan Etscorn's garage gym. Nervousness had kind of always preceded the idea of asking the older guys to let me into their circle though. I finally managed the nerve to ask.
And for those guys letting me join them all I have to say is I owe them a million favors and what not, though I do prefer they don't ask them of me. Tuesdays and thursdays have been boulder with the big boys nights which I have absolutely loved the experience of. The crew the first night I went there was huge, I can't even remember everyone that was there. But 10 people in a rather small garage is crowded. Really crowded. Since then there has been a more consistent smaller group consisting of Dylan, Mike Snyder(wyclimber.blogspot.com), Clint Cook, Bryant and Matt Hall, Dan Miller, and Jason Litton. Now with those I was also doing some intermittent hangboard training and some other little tidbits I picked up from old climbing magazines.
Another little thing I might go off on now is climbing magazines quality. You look at the ones from the late 80's and 90's and then you look at the nows and your just like "what haaaappened?" Those older ones are filled with exceptional articles about the limits being pushed, medicine, and training. Rock and Ice and Climbing just don't seem to be put out on the level they use o be. Ok enough negative, I'm sorry.
Once the weather was nice enough I was like now I can train at the gym too super sick, before it went down. I went there one day before school was like wow my skill really went down. My butt was handed to me on a golden platter, I was having so much fun though. You appreciate things like that more when you don't have them for a while. The movement felt beautiful. And I even was going to finish it off with some training. Thats when it hit the fan. The lady who owns the building came in and freaked the eff out. She revoked my key. From there it has just gone down the hill, into the gutter, out the drain, and into the sewer. The weather was escalating in temperature though. So I made a trip via bike out to check the possibility of climbing after school. Verdict was not enough light. That weekend I traveled to Missoula to see Manda which was super fun and as always depressing when it came to an end. Since then I have made it outside for climbing twice and once just to be out there, silly cause I was freezing. Hate satan is almost a-go. Almost Garrgh.
Spring break shows signs of Joe's Valley. oh yes. Any one with advice feel free to give. And anyone with advice on training even more free to give.
Till next time.

the rest

The fourth route... It started with a dyno followed by an awkward move to what i would like to call quite the bad sloper. that went out to a positive crimp then crossed into a bubbly red white and blue feature from there you gastoned above you and then reached out to the right to gaston with your other hand. Dropped your left right below to a sidepull and threw to the finish jug. After many tries in that five minutes I finally made it to the last move where I threw to the final jug. My grip failed me but i was exhilarated. The route was absolutely beautiful all the way through. I found out later that day I was in second with Joshua Levin leading. The next day came fast I woke up early planning on being there close after iso's opening. That was bad on my part I ended up warming up a little too much. Excuses excuses. I went out to the first problem, my first mess up. I did not flash it but second try I walked up it. The second route was a flash another steep route. The third, a slab. My greatest fear. My biggest weakness. It took me three tries to complete it at this point I was freaked out I knew I had lost my high standing. It was my fault I had been indecisive and messed up. I was amazed I had done it though because I thought it was a very challenging route. Then the fourth route, another beauty. It moved up a slightly overhanging wall onto a arete then became steeper. Everyone was making it to the same spot. Now if this sounded all negative I am sending the wrong vibe. I was disappointed with the fact I could have done better. I still loved it. It was great and eighth isnt bad right :) well now it is my turn to complain haha. The routes for finals truthfully were not what they should have been right once I was done I felt like this. Each route had concrete cruxes which is not how competition routes like this should be. What I think is proof to this idea is the four way tie that occurred in the top ten. ill post the results after this. But it just didnt feel like a fair ending. so be it though. I cant wait to climb outside. and I get to reset the seventy at our gym that might not be going into complete decay hurray yay yay yay. Thats it for now. Peace.

Jinxed?

So on my laptop at my house I have been trying to get on at my house... it has not been able not work at all. Well now in history class I will try to finish my story about ABS 11 nationals
The next day at 9:45 i was off to the comp, iso closed at 10:30. I was up 28th. Nervous and what not I warmed up in iso snacking on clif bars and the other free bars, I am a fan of free stuff. I went out to the first problem. Right once I read the problem I hopped on and flashed it. Thank god that would have been bad to mess up that early in the competition. The next problem was awkward i tried to decipher it as best I could. I made the problem about half way on the first try. Second try I made my corrections and found my way to the top. On the third problem it was a steep roof and there was a possibility for a flash. I made it, flash. The fourth problem looked rather worrisome. It took me a while to figure out the flow of it. There was a dyno for a start move from there was only my guess....

Nats please

So nationals this weekend, although I would have loved to climb outside this weekend being that it was 40 degrees in cody this weekend, I absolutely loved this weekend.. mixed feelings for after the comp, but not because of the comp. We arrived in DC, we being me and my mom, on thursday. Quite frankly I should have jumped off the DC plane and kissed the ground for the fact that I made it there with the recent conditions of record snowfall in the area. In minneapolis we met up with Amanda, my girlfriend, and i was lucky enough to get to sit next to her on the way to DC. Once in DC we were picked up by my moms grade school friend Mandy, her nickname- shes an amanda too, we went to hotel monaco in downtown alexandria. It was fun, that night we cruised the main street to get the lay of the land and find dinner. The next day was drive by touring of DC. The only museum we went to was the holocaust museum. Fascinating. The only other one I would have been really interested to see was the air and space museum. Then we went and saw memorials. Their just not that amazing. I didnt interact with them. They didnt educate me. They were just there. They are beautiful, dont get me wrong. But it feels like glorifying what we've accomplished. How does that matter in the now? Im sure it does just there are better things. At least they get america walking to and fro haha. But going to see the lincoln memorial being on the hit and run tour we were dropped off at the handicapped area by Mandy and ran up to snap some photos. In the 5 minutes that took the security guards were onto her. so we ran back and booked it. That night we went and checked into the the hotel and checked in for the comp. Now I must go help pack, we are still in DC I think I have free time at the airport for a lil' blogging if not I will try to get on soon. I am getting better I will admit. Dont Jinx

ending the un-ended

Well once I got up there.. I cant remember where I was exactly in my story haha but I warmed up on shyza shyza and then snytonga and moved on to the Hate Satan Proj. I was feeling rather strong for not having been on the route in such a seemingly endless time but after 15 or so tries I had the route's movement back under control, relatively. Once. Just once. I made it all the way to the end with my toe on the jug you need to heelhook so you can hand foot match. But my body would just not let me make that tiny move. Toe to heel. Toe to heel. Next time. ah. Beautiful route. I get excited thinking about it. sometimes I think for a nice day with doing that route I would have given up this weekend.. but i dont know, ill have a chance at doing it hopefully soon if i dont fall into decay because of lack of a gym haha(churning stomach, sick with fear). Currently I dont know what is happening with the gym. If I loose it i face problems. With its current condition I face problems also though. I cant wait for summer. outside is where I want to be. Outside. Sun. Perfect Sandstone Bouldering

Hate Satan Proj.

Saturday's game plan was to wake up early at the 5 train, break, yoga, and train. No way haha. I woke up at 7 easily being that I went to bed at 8:30. Took my time getting ready, lately it seems like I never have calm days. I love it but it does tire my system. By 10 i was walking off to the rock gym supposed to meet this new climber in town who decided a day in the gym would be fantastic. I had done my two traverse laps for an intro to my warmup when i walked outside to make a call. Revelation- It was a balmy 40 degrees, I could climb outside. After a couple moments of elation I hustled out of the rockgym with my stuff called to make my bail phone call and was off to set up the ol' bike and burly(ey?). Call it fortune but my mom offered to give me a ride up cedar(the mountain). Thank god I accepted being that I was considering denial for the fact that it is a great warm up to bike up cedar because on our way up I saw the road was blanketed in snow.
Once at the boulders I threw on my shoes at a 30 foot traverse on an overhang V7, Shyza Shyza. After some sufficient lappage to the end but not overly pushing myself for the go I moved onto Snytonga. Again not wanting to overly exert myself I went for the crux move multiple times but didn't try to catch the sharp crimp. Then it was onto The hate satan roof route.- to be continued

I'm a crappy blogger

Just think I've had this blog what, almost two years and I have possibly 8 posts. But since tribal vibrations the outside progress really has been limited.. real limited. I think I did a couple of v10s. I did however more importantly find a v13ish project to work on. I had it done, every move down, but then winter came. That sends people like myself to use the rock gym as a crutch until winters reign is over. But since I am in the gym I make relatively good use of It. Alexandria Virginia is hosting bouldering nationals for this year next weekend. I fly out with my mom on thursday. The weekend is through valentines day so the fact my girlfriend Amanda will be joining us in Virginia is completely amazing. I've been training hard for the last week haha I'm sure I'm gonna climb at my limit.. maybe not. I hope so though. My goal is to place in the top 10. Later for now. Hopefully I'll update soon. If not, call me a failure.