Success! Blog number two.
I just read Rock & Ice, no idea which issue, but there was story on Sasha DiGiullian. I proceeded to cry once this story made me acknowledge my failures.
Ok well first thing, something that I have been trying to do... Goal list.
5.14c
V13
V14
Rodeo Free
Pistol Whip Project
The Project I like to call "resolution" but really has no relation to that route
Black Lung. I plan on going to Joe's for a week come break. It's on the list and hopefully an actual possibility this year.
If this trip to Hueco pulls together, I would like to climb a V12 there.
Travel to Helena and climb with Dominick
Put time into development into the Backside. The most difficult part about this is finding the hard projects I want. It's not that they aren't there; the search is just comprehensive. Areas seem to build up from the ground when it comes to grades, which makes sense.
Gucci Guitar. That gave me a goal for the weekend. Awesome. Hopefully the weather is conducive to that idea.
50 pull ups
5 one arms
3 laps on my campus board, which I haven't managed to do since last year.
Non-related to this (climbing), but since this will be my goal list, I must include attempt to earn As in all classes and destroy ACT so as to be Valedictorian. The chances are slim, but hey, goals are goals.
This summer, I am also hoping to travel to Font. for my senior trip. I have been wavering between Font. and Switzerland. Right now, I think Font., but that's always up for change.
Something to read. I don't necessarily feel this way; nevertheless, it made me laugh.
Friday, January 20, 2012
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
The Death Penalty
We live in a nation built on the founding principle that all men are created equal. In consequence, a human’s actions should be judged with equal reciprocation— “an eye for an eye.” Furthermore, capital punishment deserves implementation in cases of murder.
When considering capital punishment, it is important to not to limit the scope, or view, of “an eye for an eye.” In example, if a woman shot another man, subsequently killing him, she does not necessarily deserve death; what if he made her the victim of his habitual rape? Because of scenarios like this, capital punishment demands delicate application, and does not apply to all murders.
For simplicity, we will consider a basic instance where murder is the overriding and defining issue within a case, and capital punishment is the primary consideration.
So the reader possesses a more complete view, a short list of oppositional stances is given: more costly for the state to carry through with capital punishment, two wrongs do not make a right, and the straightforward fact that the crime has already been committed—to kill convict would not solve anything.
Taxes cover the costs of capital punishment. For a person to oppose paying the small portion of his income that will eventually aid a fellow society member is small minded, and this literal cost should not be viewed as exceeding the emotional cost to those involved, or more critical than the moral downfall.
Of course, two wrongs do not make a right, but it is possible for the second wrong to work in the direction of justice.
The argument that killing a man who has already executed his crime is invalid. Any chance of the convict committing a second offense drops to zero, and the punishment deters other possible convicts from pursuing similar crimes
Although it does not appear to be law’s general tendency to be emotionally inclined, it is important for emotions to be acknowledged when that is one of the victim’s costs.
A murdered person gives up the rest of his life and numerous opportunities, whether the person would have lived for seventy-three or twelve more years. This is an enormous payment on behalf of the victim. In addition, there is the emotional trauma during the murder, which to most, is likely incomprehensible, and the trauma to the victim’s relations. Piling upon these last three costs is society’s loss of wealth in some form or another from the loss of one of its persons.
One of the law’s primary goals is to provide appropriate compensation. In this scenario, to provide the equal compensation, the only means would be to reciprocate the original actions.
Thus, the death penalty has the potential to be the appropriate sentence to achieve the primary goal of many cases, compensation.
This blog post is an official entry for the Law Blogger’s Scholarship, sponsored by The Law Office of Joshua Pond, http://www.joshuapondlaw.com.
When considering capital punishment, it is important to not to limit the scope, or view, of “an eye for an eye.” In example, if a woman shot another man, subsequently killing him, she does not necessarily deserve death; what if he made her the victim of his habitual rape? Because of scenarios like this, capital punishment demands delicate application, and does not apply to all murders.
For simplicity, we will consider a basic instance where murder is the overriding and defining issue within a case, and capital punishment is the primary consideration.
So the reader possesses a more complete view, a short list of oppositional stances is given: more costly for the state to carry through with capital punishment, two wrongs do not make a right, and the straightforward fact that the crime has already been committed—to kill convict would not solve anything.
Taxes cover the costs of capital punishment. For a person to oppose paying the small portion of his income that will eventually aid a fellow society member is small minded, and this literal cost should not be viewed as exceeding the emotional cost to those involved, or more critical than the moral downfall.
Of course, two wrongs do not make a right, but it is possible for the second wrong to work in the direction of justice.
The argument that killing a man who has already executed his crime is invalid. Any chance of the convict committing a second offense drops to zero, and the punishment deters other possible convicts from pursuing similar crimes
Although it does not appear to be law’s general tendency to be emotionally inclined, it is important for emotions to be acknowledged when that is one of the victim’s costs.
A murdered person gives up the rest of his life and numerous opportunities, whether the person would have lived for seventy-three or twelve more years. This is an enormous payment on behalf of the victim. In addition, there is the emotional trauma during the murder, which to most, is likely incomprehensible, and the trauma to the victim’s relations. Piling upon these last three costs is society’s loss of wealth in some form or another from the loss of one of its persons.
One of the law’s primary goals is to provide appropriate compensation. In this scenario, to provide the equal compensation, the only means would be to reciprocate the original actions.
Thus, the death penalty has the potential to be the appropriate sentence to achieve the primary goal of many cases, compensation.
This blog post is an official entry for the Law Blogger’s Scholarship, sponsored by The Law Office of Joshua Pond, http://www.joshuapondlaw.com.
Friday, January 13, 2012
You blocked me on Facebook; now you must Die.
I have decided to stop climbing.
Ha Ha. Not really. But, my appearance on the climbing scene has diminished. A quick year in review.
I went to nationals and sucked it up. Let's just say I could've done better.
The day after destroying the sickest plastic project-in reality, I thought it was a new high in my climbing-I injured my finger three finger campussing.
Over a week in Joe's valley, I peaked out with No Substance, a V8, a memorable and rather disheartening send. Being that this was three weeks after sustaining my previously mentioned injury, I was still handicapped. I attended an SCS competition afterwards and the pain resumed completely. At the comp., I completed two routes... maybe just one.
Climbing in Bozeman the next weekend to attain my necessary three for regionals, I still felt pain and stopped after two routes.
Ultimately, I did not attend regionals or any following competition.
I climbed thrice at the beginning of the summer completing routes new to me such as the Pulaski, V6. Pain resumed, and I of course un-resumed climbing.
A couple days into July, I'm guessing the fourth, I began to climb again. Making a strong appearance, I sunk pockets at the Lander International Climbers' Festival-consisting of five days of 5.10 snacking. It seemed much more like chewing on bitter inedible twigs than any sort of snack.
For the next three weeks, I climbed managing to send Tribal Vibrations, V11, and some others again. However routes, such as Pookster, another eleven, beat me yet; it was abuse.
Europe, an awesome-ish trip, came, but climbing only came seldom. Once in Austria, once and half in Switzerland, and thrice in France. I sent Biceps Mou, the highlight-day (out of twenty-one) of my Europe trip.
Back in Wyoming, I did ten 8s in four hours and Green Glass Door, an awesome route.
It is rather depressing to see that was my year in climbing. Like fo' real, I did shit. Sorry to use the word. Not very professional. Looking over all that is a disappointment.
The year previous, the list of accomplishments was much more impressive. Eleven. Twelve. Thirteen. 8th at nationals.
Now looking at it like that is probably not the best. Climbing is about enjoying yourself; we all make it sound like some enlightening pursuit. We all make it sound as if this transcends us to a higher level. Maybe I am misinterpreting the things I read, or think I read. And if we are to think climbing transcends the human, why wouldn't we take it seriously?
Climbing to me is a game. It is not a lifestyle, although my life revolves around it. It is a game because I go out and climb rocks while taking it as if though I am playing with nuclear weaponry. Dealing with nuclear weaponry strikes me as a pursuit I would enjoy, but this doesn't mean I would treat it lightly. When I take a step back though, I realize all climbing does is give me an unreasonable sort of pleasure.
The weeks without climbing taught me that I do not need climbing to live. Over the weeks, I managed to make a catapult, six feet tall, and develop my social life. Those were the only remarkable developments. It is hard to tell if my mental fortitude declined over this period.
Looking back to where this tangent, nigh on unintelligible, started, climbing is about enjoyment, and even though it is just a game, my happiness depends on it. Without progression, life in stasis, to me, is a life not lived. Not superseding my previous year with greater achievement disappoints me. If someone asks me, the greatest moment of my life. I don't want to look back three years and say a certain day. If my finest moment was any extended amount of time ago, what the @#$% have I been doing in the mean time? If I can avoid injury, and I will consciously try to avoid it, this new year will not be like last year.
Since the end of summer, I have primarily climbed indoors. On my wall...
Last year, my biggest flaw was my inability on large moves. Lacking large facilities, I worked on smaller move, harder hold routes. My last couple months have gone to working on nemesis routes with big moves, and as I have become better, worse holds.
I think, do not know, that I progressed in ability, hopefully at least to the previous years strength.
For the last year, I also had small-time sponsorship from La Sportiva. I didn't attempt to renew because of my poor performance though. If I had done, well I would feel as if though I deserved a sponsorship; I did no such thing though and must once again prove myself, if only to myself, worthy of a sponsorship.
It is hard to find a balance in life when I'm all about extremes. My classes are not too difficult, but sometimes the homework is just ridiculous and overwhelming; at the same time, which pisses me off, it is unnecessary. Of the things in life I do, and am proud of, I think first and foremost to come to mind is academics. Not that I am supremely above others, but I push my limits to the bar society sets for me in small-town Cody. Last semester, I took Calculus II, AP Biology (Bio 1010 through the near-by college), Honors British Lit., Advanced Composition (English 1010 through the college), and AP Economics (outside of school, online, and self-paced). This semester is much more my style with Differential Equations (at the college), College Physics... at the college, calc. based..., Independent study for "Advanced Topics in Mathematics," Chemistry II (college Chemistry 1010), AP Statistics, and AP Government. Normally, a kid takes four classes at a time, so I am pretty psyched with six. What I love is my parents don't push me in any of this. They support me, but they don't push.
The only part that sucks is I often am single minded. I must either be focussed on my intellect or physical being. It's one or the other. My goal this semester is to find a way for the two to work together, to be in balance.
Among other sad things, I believe that USAclimbing wants me dead. Well, this year they changed up the set-up for bouldering and regionals was in December. It is generally in January, well in previous years. Although I registered for the competition, somehow I never saw a date. So there was $85, a ridiculous amount, down the drain. Really though, it was my fault. Dagnabit. This made me more resolute in my decision to not reapply for a sponsorship.
Lately I climb hard in the gym and easy outside. A couple of days ago, I skipped out on school and went up with Jordan Jolley, Josh, and Christian Baumeister. I don't remember Josh's last name despite the fact I know him fairly well, much better than Christian at least. When we went up, I managed a new V5 next to Fader, which I called V7 last year... more like V5.
Today, Reese, a longtime friend of mine, and I went up to look at this boulder he cleaned up when I was in school. Down low, this is all between the first and second switchback on Cedar, he put up a low-ball V2/3 called Circle Jerk. Then he showed me the other boulder. It took a while to work out the easiest sequence, but when we did it went down at about V6 I would say. I don't know if this is correct because my judgement is befuddled from all times we tried it with extremely hard-to-hold start holds. So... Villainy in the Modern Age, V6.
Then Reese was wanting to give a look up the Lower Stonehedge drainage, so of course, we did just that. Making it to the first boulder up the gulley, the Maxx (I think that's how it was spelled), we threw down pads. In the guide there was a five done and room for more. So, we both did the five and began to work on a route that came out of a super-tight corridor. When all the dust settled, practically a literal statement, one chossy, semi-crap route was left standing. The moves once you escape the corridor are nice, but the corridor absolutely blows. I think this one deserves to be called Maxx Blow, V6.
What I really want is the perfect project. Three weeks of work. Beautiful movement. Memorable send. Limit of difficulty.
I'm waiting for it to appear. Thanks for reading. I doubt this blogging will become a more regular thing, but hey, we can hope.
Ha Ha. Not really. But, my appearance on the climbing scene has diminished. A quick year in review.
I went to nationals and sucked it up. Let's just say I could've done better.
The day after destroying the sickest plastic project-in reality, I thought it was a new high in my climbing-I injured my finger three finger campussing.
Over a week in Joe's valley, I peaked out with No Substance, a V8, a memorable and rather disheartening send. Being that this was three weeks after sustaining my previously mentioned injury, I was still handicapped. I attended an SCS competition afterwards and the pain resumed completely. At the comp., I completed two routes... maybe just one.
Climbing in Bozeman the next weekend to attain my necessary three for regionals, I still felt pain and stopped after two routes.
Ultimately, I did not attend regionals or any following competition.
I climbed thrice at the beginning of the summer completing routes new to me such as the Pulaski, V6. Pain resumed, and I of course un-resumed climbing.
A couple days into July, I'm guessing the fourth, I began to climb again. Making a strong appearance, I sunk pockets at the Lander International Climbers' Festival-consisting of five days of 5.10 snacking. It seemed much more like chewing on bitter inedible twigs than any sort of snack.
For the next three weeks, I climbed managing to send Tribal Vibrations, V11, and some others again. However routes, such as Pookster, another eleven, beat me yet; it was abuse.
Europe, an awesome-ish trip, came, but climbing only came seldom. Once in Austria, once and half in Switzerland, and thrice in France. I sent Biceps Mou, the highlight-day (out of twenty-one) of my Europe trip.
Back in Wyoming, I did ten 8s in four hours and Green Glass Door, an awesome route.
It is rather depressing to see that was my year in climbing. Like fo' real, I did shit. Sorry to use the word. Not very professional. Looking over all that is a disappointment.
The year previous, the list of accomplishments was much more impressive. Eleven. Twelve. Thirteen. 8th at nationals.
Now looking at it like that is probably not the best. Climbing is about enjoying yourself; we all make it sound like some enlightening pursuit. We all make it sound as if this transcends us to a higher level. Maybe I am misinterpreting the things I read, or think I read. And if we are to think climbing transcends the human, why wouldn't we take it seriously?
Climbing to me is a game. It is not a lifestyle, although my life revolves around it. It is a game because I go out and climb rocks while taking it as if though I am playing with nuclear weaponry. Dealing with nuclear weaponry strikes me as a pursuit I would enjoy, but this doesn't mean I would treat it lightly. When I take a step back though, I realize all climbing does is give me an unreasonable sort of pleasure.
The weeks without climbing taught me that I do not need climbing to live. Over the weeks, I managed to make a catapult, six feet tall, and develop my social life. Those were the only remarkable developments. It is hard to tell if my mental fortitude declined over this period.
Looking back to where this tangent, nigh on unintelligible, started, climbing is about enjoyment, and even though it is just a game, my happiness depends on it. Without progression, life in stasis, to me, is a life not lived. Not superseding my previous year with greater achievement disappoints me. If someone asks me, the greatest moment of my life. I don't want to look back three years and say a certain day. If my finest moment was any extended amount of time ago, what the @#$% have I been doing in the mean time? If I can avoid injury, and I will consciously try to avoid it, this new year will not be like last year.
Since the end of summer, I have primarily climbed indoors. On my wall...
Last year, my biggest flaw was my inability on large moves. Lacking large facilities, I worked on smaller move, harder hold routes. My last couple months have gone to working on nemesis routes with big moves, and as I have become better, worse holds.
I think, do not know, that I progressed in ability, hopefully at least to the previous years strength.
For the last year, I also had small-time sponsorship from La Sportiva. I didn't attempt to renew because of my poor performance though. If I had done, well I would feel as if though I deserved a sponsorship; I did no such thing though and must once again prove myself, if only to myself, worthy of a sponsorship.
It is hard to find a balance in life when I'm all about extremes. My classes are not too difficult, but sometimes the homework is just ridiculous and overwhelming; at the same time, which pisses me off, it is unnecessary. Of the things in life I do, and am proud of, I think first and foremost to come to mind is academics. Not that I am supremely above others, but I push my limits to the bar society sets for me in small-town Cody. Last semester, I took Calculus II, AP Biology (Bio 1010 through the near-by college), Honors British Lit., Advanced Composition (English 1010 through the college), and AP Economics (outside of school, online, and self-paced). This semester is much more my style with Differential Equations (at the college), College Physics... at the college, calc. based..., Independent study for "Advanced Topics in Mathematics," Chemistry II (college Chemistry 1010), AP Statistics, and AP Government. Normally, a kid takes four classes at a time, so I am pretty psyched with six. What I love is my parents don't push me in any of this. They support me, but they don't push.
The only part that sucks is I often am single minded. I must either be focussed on my intellect or physical being. It's one or the other. My goal this semester is to find a way for the two to work together, to be in balance.
Among other sad things, I believe that USAclimbing wants me dead. Well, this year they changed up the set-up for bouldering and regionals was in December. It is generally in January, well in previous years. Although I registered for the competition, somehow I never saw a date. So there was $85, a ridiculous amount, down the drain. Really though, it was my fault. Dagnabit. This made me more resolute in my decision to not reapply for a sponsorship.
Lately I climb hard in the gym and easy outside. A couple of days ago, I skipped out on school and went up with Jordan Jolley, Josh, and Christian Baumeister. I don't remember Josh's last name despite the fact I know him fairly well, much better than Christian at least. When we went up, I managed a new V5 next to Fader, which I called V7 last year... more like V5.
Today, Reese, a longtime friend of mine, and I went up to look at this boulder he cleaned up when I was in school. Down low, this is all between the first and second switchback on Cedar, he put up a low-ball V2/3 called Circle Jerk. Then he showed me the other boulder. It took a while to work out the easiest sequence, but when we did it went down at about V6 I would say. I don't know if this is correct because my judgement is befuddled from all times we tried it with extremely hard-to-hold start holds. So... Villainy in the Modern Age, V6.
Then Reese was wanting to give a look up the Lower Stonehedge drainage, so of course, we did just that. Making it to the first boulder up the gulley, the Maxx (I think that's how it was spelled), we threw down pads. In the guide there was a five done and room for more. So, we both did the five and began to work on a route that came out of a super-tight corridor. When all the dust settled, practically a literal statement, one chossy, semi-crap route was left standing. The moves once you escape the corridor are nice, but the corridor absolutely blows. I think this one deserves to be called Maxx Blow, V6.
What I really want is the perfect project. Three weeks of work. Beautiful movement. Memorable send. Limit of difficulty.
I'm waiting for it to appear. Thanks for reading. I doubt this blogging will become a more regular thing, but hey, we can hope.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Open that Door!
I am the king of indecisiveness. So many times, I have thought, "I should make a blog post." And then, the negative nancy within my head asks me, "What on earth do you have to tell?" The honest truth would be not much. However occasionally I do have some words that I find worth sharing. Also this does well to explain the mass quantity of time between my posts.
So, the rest of my summer was spent in Europe. Europe was awesome, but there was one major problem, an extreme lack of climbing. I climbed in a gym in Innsbruck and Interlaken. We also managed to go climb outside in Interlaken for an hour or two. Super massive, beautiful, granite faces. Of course, I was humbled and sent away after being put in my place on an 11c. Moments like that made me want to leave Europe or climb every day there. That is bratty. But, climbing is number one. I would kill for climbing: not the sweetest thought. The highlight of the trip was Paris because I was able to go by train down to Fontainebleau.
In Font., my time was spent at Bas Cuvier (pronounced without the s and r). Bas Cuvier has rolling hills littered with innumerable boulders. While there, I managed to put down Biceps Mou, an awesome 7b. The last day of climbing, we (parts of the family and I) took a taxi to Bas Cuvier. I asked for a calling card and received one that way we would be able to take a taxi back to the train station. After a day of climbing. We went to the parking lot and tried to call the taxi. Number showed invalid! So, we walked back to town. This took approximately two hours. Oh the things we do for climbing.
Now back in Wyoming, I have been seeking my ever so elusive strength. To gain it back, repeats are the name of the game. One day, I decided to approach a circuit competition style. With four hours, I was going to attempt a repeat 10 different V8's.
The list went as follows:
Deadman's Harley
Hiya
Bawitdaba
Presto
POW!
Ripper Extension
Something About Bob
Studs
8000 Beats per Minute
Honey Beaver
I managed to do this with approximately 7 minutes to spare.
Other than that, I managed to do a link-up of Kaiya (Spelling?) into Hiya. This may or may not be a first ascent. I think it was 9 or 10ish. Super fun and techy. Although, I could only work the route for a couple tries a day unless I took a break otherwise my knee began to hurt. If it has yet to be named, I knight it Dragonfly's Dance. If not, oh well.
The second route would be a new one on the Wretch. This route starts up Riding a Deadman's Harley (11) and follows a new route across the face that moves from the start of Deadman's Harley (8) to the end of Wilford's Wretch (6/7). This route is probably 10 or 11. We will have to wait for someone else to decide. Probably a ten, a beautiful one at that. As with the theme of the boulder, I personally will call the route Green Glass Door. This route is beautiful and covers a large distance on the boulder. Hopefully someone else does it soon.
So, the rest of my summer was spent in Europe. Europe was awesome, but there was one major problem, an extreme lack of climbing. I climbed in a gym in Innsbruck and Interlaken. We also managed to go climb outside in Interlaken for an hour or two. Super massive, beautiful, granite faces. Of course, I was humbled and sent away after being put in my place on an 11c. Moments like that made me want to leave Europe or climb every day there. That is bratty. But, climbing is number one. I would kill for climbing: not the sweetest thought. The highlight of the trip was Paris because I was able to go by train down to Fontainebleau.
In Font., my time was spent at Bas Cuvier (pronounced without the s and r). Bas Cuvier has rolling hills littered with innumerable boulders. While there, I managed to put down Biceps Mou, an awesome 7b. The last day of climbing, we (parts of the family and I) took a taxi to Bas Cuvier. I asked for a calling card and received one that way we would be able to take a taxi back to the train station. After a day of climbing. We went to the parking lot and tried to call the taxi. Number showed invalid! So, we walked back to town. This took approximately two hours. Oh the things we do for climbing.
Now back in Wyoming, I have been seeking my ever so elusive strength. To gain it back, repeats are the name of the game. One day, I decided to approach a circuit competition style. With four hours, I was going to attempt a repeat 10 different V8's.
The list went as follows:
Deadman's Harley
Hiya
Bawitdaba
Presto
POW!
Ripper Extension
Something About Bob
Studs
8000 Beats per Minute
Honey Beaver
I managed to do this with approximately 7 minutes to spare.
Other than that, I managed to do a link-up of Kaiya (Spelling?) into Hiya. This may or may not be a first ascent. I think it was 9 or 10ish. Super fun and techy. Although, I could only work the route for a couple tries a day unless I took a break otherwise my knee began to hurt. If it has yet to be named, I knight it Dragonfly's Dance. If not, oh well.
The second route would be a new one on the Wretch. This route starts up Riding a Deadman's Harley (11) and follows a new route across the face that moves from the start of Deadman's Harley (8) to the end of Wilford's Wretch (6/7). This route is probably 10 or 11. We will have to wait for someone else to decide. Probably a ten, a beautiful one at that. As with the theme of the boulder, I personally will call the route Green Glass Door. This route is beautiful and covers a large distance on the boulder. Hopefully someone else does it soon.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Sloppy Seconds and the Dream Phase
Time and I are at odds.
I need time. Time lets one grow. Without time, I would be forever stuck on this never-ending plateau. But time also limits my growth, for it is not infinite. I have to work within it's set confines.
However, I also am the master of time. I create time, just as each and every other person creates time. Time is unique. Time is only there because a person may perceive a passing moment and record the past. Whereas in truth, there is only the present, hence time does not exist because at any given moment there is only the instant. So perhaps every moment is occurring over and over on different dimensions giving the perception of time.
Either way, I wish time would go slower and give me time to heal and climb. But, the good news is I am back climbing. Taking occasional days of climbing and a week in Joe's (where my peak was No Substance) into account, I took 3 months off of climbing. Currently, I am into my third week of climbing.
The first couple of days were a bit of a challenge. Heck, the days now are a challenge. I was struggling to put down fours. Climbing fours is admirable for a climber. When a person knows that at one point they could do better, but at that moment they can't, it is mildly disheartening. There was however a plus to climbing a maximum grade that I passed in the climbing gym. The situation put me in a position to go to boulders I never had any desire to attack before. I opened up to quite a few boulders I had never been on before. Of the new-to-me boulders, I think my favorite was the Manual labor boulder. There is an awesome 6 called the Pulaski. Sharp holds, great movement.
Other boulders/routes that I jumped on that I would recommend:
Dr.J Boulder- The 4 on there is definitely worth checking out. The rock quality is questionable in place (I broke one of the holds I was thinking about using).
Dragon Force Boulder- This boulder is entering the ranks of the Wretch and Spearpoint (exciting news on Spearpoint to come). With the two routes from last year (there is FDP, Fossilized Dinosaur Poo, and Living in Infamy, graded10 and 10), Marc has added two eights. The Honey Badger (funny, I think I heard that name in another area) and 8000 Beats Per Minute. I would have to say Honey Badger was the better of the two with awesome intro moves into V6 for the finish. I did 8000 BPM by myself. Go there, that's heady.
Ahona Boulder- On Ahona a relatively new route was put up last fall. The route, When Life Gives You Lemons, should be on everyone's ticklist. Following a sloper arete on the right side of the boulder's steep face you move up out left onto the face after falling into a left-hand two finger pocket. You lock into a solid undercling, and then make an enormous throw out to the last pocket on Ahona Verdugo, the eight on the boulder. After doing this route, I am inclined to say it is not a nine, but more of an eight, possibly seven. However, I will say out of all these new routes this was my favorite.
Spearpoint- Although I have no real news about this boulder, I saw a possibility on this boulder that excites me. I thought it was most definitely climbed out. Last year Terry did a new route called something like Spear Chuckin' Baby Throwdown. This route goes the reverse way of Babies for Breafast and up Ho-down Throwdown. Well, if you start on the three and kind of shift up along Tribal Vibrations. Instead of going up though, you hit the start holds of the stand up nine that goes up the obvious crck that moves to the right. From there you sould cross onto this crimp and move to the jug on Ho-down Throwdown. The crimp is on the left side of the right slanted crack. Should be obvious if you look at the boulder. Spearpoint is by far my favorite boulder with the largest concentration of hard climbs.
Spearpoint and Ripper. Best boulders on the mountain.
I need time. Time lets one grow. Without time, I would be forever stuck on this never-ending plateau. But time also limits my growth, for it is not infinite. I have to work within it's set confines.
However, I also am the master of time. I create time, just as each and every other person creates time. Time is unique. Time is only there because a person may perceive a passing moment and record the past. Whereas in truth, there is only the present, hence time does not exist because at any given moment there is only the instant. So perhaps every moment is occurring over and over on different dimensions giving the perception of time.
Either way, I wish time would go slower and give me time to heal and climb. But, the good news is I am back climbing. Taking occasional days of climbing and a week in Joe's (where my peak was No Substance) into account, I took 3 months off of climbing. Currently, I am into my third week of climbing.
The first couple of days were a bit of a challenge. Heck, the days now are a challenge. I was struggling to put down fours. Climbing fours is admirable for a climber. When a person knows that at one point they could do better, but at that moment they can't, it is mildly disheartening. There was however a plus to climbing a maximum grade that I passed in the climbing gym. The situation put me in a position to go to boulders I never had any desire to attack before. I opened up to quite a few boulders I had never been on before. Of the new-to-me boulders, I think my favorite was the Manual labor boulder. There is an awesome 6 called the Pulaski. Sharp holds, great movement.
Other boulders/routes that I jumped on that I would recommend:
Dr.J Boulder- The 4 on there is definitely worth checking out. The rock quality is questionable in place (I broke one of the holds I was thinking about using).
Dragon Force Boulder- This boulder is entering the ranks of the Wretch and Spearpoint (exciting news on Spearpoint to come). With the two routes from last year (there is FDP, Fossilized Dinosaur Poo, and Living in Infamy, graded10 and 10), Marc has added two eights. The Honey Badger (funny, I think I heard that name in another area) and 8000 Beats Per Minute. I would have to say Honey Badger was the better of the two with awesome intro moves into V6 for the finish. I did 8000 BPM by myself. Go there, that's heady.
Ahona Boulder- On Ahona a relatively new route was put up last fall. The route, When Life Gives You Lemons, should be on everyone's ticklist. Following a sloper arete on the right side of the boulder's steep face you move up out left onto the face after falling into a left-hand two finger pocket. You lock into a solid undercling, and then make an enormous throw out to the last pocket on Ahona Verdugo, the eight on the boulder. After doing this route, I am inclined to say it is not a nine, but more of an eight, possibly seven. However, I will say out of all these new routes this was my favorite.
Spearpoint- Although I have no real news about this boulder, I saw a possibility on this boulder that excites me. I thought it was most definitely climbed out. Last year Terry did a new route called something like Spear Chuckin' Baby Throwdown. This route goes the reverse way of Babies for Breafast and up Ho-down Throwdown. Well, if you start on the three and kind of shift up along Tribal Vibrations. Instead of going up though, you hit the start holds of the stand up nine that goes up the obvious crck that moves to the right. From there you sould cross onto this crimp and move to the jug on Ho-down Throwdown. The crimp is on the left side of the right slanted crack. Should be obvious if you look at the boulder. Spearpoint is by far my favorite boulder with the largest concentration of hard climbs.
Spearpoint and Ripper. Best boulders on the mountain.
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Reincarnation, sadly, is not instantaneous
There is much of nothing to say. The weeks preceding Joe's were spent in a state of rest where I would take a week off climb once and repeat. This being rather uncharacteristic of me has a reason. I managed to hurt my finger, completely intentional, by campussing. As I well know, everyone is very interested in the background story. Well I was feeling like a was hitting a rather high peak. Crushing (plastic) projects had been the agenda on the two days of climbing previous to the injury. Adapting myself to a stress much like what I would encounter in Joe's (climbing multiple days on), I was often climbing 5 days in a row. So I was thinking, third day on this can't be anything but healthy for me. I threw down with some huge move routes, which a rarely do, and then proceeded to the campus board to finish up this short session. The small rungs, beckoning me to climb them, decided to beat me. In all honesty, I was feeling invincible. Going up and down with three fingers exhilarated me. Only planning on doing six sets, I began to feel pain on the fourth set. I taped tighter. I finished off the sets with constant pain in my right finger. The pain wasn't crippling; however, it was building my apprehension. I took one day off after. Two days later I returned to the dungeon (garage/climbing gym) only to be pushed away.
The next three weeks slowly ate me.
And then, the Joe's trip arrived. I was going to climb at my lowest, a depressing notion. Not only that, but I was fearful that I would make it all the way down there only to find I still couldn't climb.
Turns out, I could climb. The highlight of the trip was succeeding on No Substance. Looking back, it is mildly depressing to see that as the pinnacle of my trip. My last year trip which lasted only three days was much more successful. Despite my negativity on here, it was an amazing trip; climbing again felt fantastic. The Saturday traveling back from Joe's, I attended a competition in Sandy, Utah. Here, I was shot down. My finger was once again hurting; the same one and a new one: lucky me. After destroying two routes (beginner top-ropes), I waved the gang sign and disappeared.
A comment on this competition: I was disappointed in the way routes were set. They used liked colored holds and no tape. Now I would agree this is awesome they have enough money to pull this off, but if you have a yellow route next to a dirty white route, not cool. Not speaking from experience or anything though.
Upon my return to Cody, I found myself with finger pain when I attempted to climb. There was yet another competition I needed to attend to meet the minimum requirement for local competitions to pass on from regionals. The competition, on the sixteenth in Bozeman, MT went down in much the same way. Do (two) route(s), roll out. After the competition, I went with my father to bikram yoga. If you ever have a chance, go.
Over my actual spring break, I did not climb once. That is a depressing truth. One of those things a person hears and goes, "Wow, that is like child abuse." And I would say, "Yes. But imagine something twice as detrimental to a person's mental health."
Now, currently still on time off. I wait for this weekend, yet another comp where all I will do is make my presence known and lose some money. I will try to climb in the beginning, but if any thing goes south (why is south bad?), I will immediately stop.
Wish me luck on the healing. Time. Time is such a fickle thing.
The next three weeks slowly ate me.
And then, the Joe's trip arrived. I was going to climb at my lowest, a depressing notion. Not only that, but I was fearful that I would make it all the way down there only to find I still couldn't climb.
Turns out, I could climb. The highlight of the trip was succeeding on No Substance. Looking back, it is mildly depressing to see that as the pinnacle of my trip. My last year trip which lasted only three days was much more successful. Despite my negativity on here, it was an amazing trip; climbing again felt fantastic. The Saturday traveling back from Joe's, I attended a competition in Sandy, Utah. Here, I was shot down. My finger was once again hurting; the same one and a new one: lucky me. After destroying two routes (beginner top-ropes), I waved the gang sign and disappeared.
A comment on this competition: I was disappointed in the way routes were set. They used liked colored holds and no tape. Now I would agree this is awesome they have enough money to pull this off, but if you have a yellow route next to a dirty white route, not cool. Not speaking from experience or anything though.
Upon my return to Cody, I found myself with finger pain when I attempted to climb. There was yet another competition I needed to attend to meet the minimum requirement for local competitions to pass on from regionals. The competition, on the sixteenth in Bozeman, MT went down in much the same way. Do (two) route(s), roll out. After the competition, I went with my father to bikram yoga. If you ever have a chance, go.
Over my actual spring break, I did not climb once. That is a depressing truth. One of those things a person hears and goes, "Wow, that is like child abuse." And I would say, "Yes. But imagine something twice as detrimental to a person's mental health."
Now, currently still on time off. I wait for this weekend, yet another comp where all I will do is make my presence known and lose some money. I will try to climb in the beginning, but if any thing goes south (why is south bad?), I will immediately stop.
Wish me luck on the healing. Time. Time is such a fickle thing.
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