Sunday, May 23, 2010

the letter 3

3 is perfect. Not quite a letter though, I'll admit. A triangle of 3 is always strong. Well 3 days of school are left. And right now that's just perfect. Tomorrow when only two are left. That will be the new perfect. When one is left the newest perfect. And once there are no numbers left that will be perfection. This weekend was a god send of sorts. On Thursday I made a happy little trip to the doctor's office. The reason for my visit was to check up on my abs. I have been concerned for quite some time with the possibility of a hernia. So skip to the point, no hernia. I was so relieved, extremely relieved. Friday I went climbing, when I first got to the crag I was feeling way too out of it. I pumped myself out a couple times warming up then went into a rather long break. On my first try doing the traverse project at the carcass crag I sent. Holy Crap. I barely did it my arms were so pumped at the end. From there we went to the Wretch I did the project on there also. Two projects one day glorious. But might it get better, oh it might. Myself and Amanda went to Clambake, a project I've had for quite some time. I was sticking the crux move that I had never been able to stick before. Realizing this was possible I started to get a wee bit jittery. After a couple more attempts I was hit with the fact I'm skipping a move. Oh @#$% ! I tried to do it with that move but by that time my muscles were weak. Oh yah I was sick that day too. It was 5 in the afternoon and all I had had was two bowls of oatmeal because it was all I could keep down.
Sunday I went out again. yippee. I did clambake, but my fingers were sadly enough sissies. That meant for a short sesh, tore a hole in ye' old finger. Hopefully I won't have thin fingers next time.. hopefully tomorrow if there is no rain right. Well wish me luck

Monday, May 10, 2010

the list

So summer is very near. I hope this upcoming week of forecasted storms and snow will be the grand opening to the sunshine and warmth. This weekend I managed to sneak in two days of climbing. The second day, a wee bit short, but climbing none the less. I tore it up on the hangboard on friday which was a silly idea with the weekend approaching. Saturday morning hit and hit it did. My whole upper body was sore. I went out with Reese and Justine to the batcave where everyone seems to have desire to go now days. Now we get to the exciting part. I climbed a route, Presto, I put on my list. I made a twenty-some problem list of to do routes in cody for this summer. Some are V8 and other are much much harder, projects. My goal is every weekend to get on at least one those routes and make maybe a little progress. Hopefully by the end of the summer that whole list is almost crossed off. It will give me a little organization and hopefully help keep motivation high.
Sunday I went out with Dan who is now working the problem twoface a sandbagged V7. He kept making it through the crux move but falling shortly after. So close. Hopefully next time though all goes as planned.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010


Infatuation- extravagant passion or love. That's what I have with climbing. Obsessive. Everything. It is a drug. You do it once. Next time you need more. And more. And more. Yesterday despite the winds that lashed our faces Justine, Reese and I made our way out to the boulder gardens. Reese, newly licensed to drive, has made a comeback to climbing. He had climbed when it was just getting big in Cody, a short lived love for many. But after climbing Three times in the last week after at least six months of no climbing and very intermittent climbing before that for the two years previous. He has already almost made the comeback to V3 and also almost did V4. After climbing at the first boulder I stole two pads and made my way over to Spearpoint. Spearpoint is filled with a good many hard routes. A 3, 6/7, 10, 11(Tribal Vibrations, and now another something. The boulder hangs out about 20 degrees from vertical maybe a little more. Many of the routes on this boulder lead to sideways movement, still fantastic, but no straight lines. The last time I was with Mike Snyder at the boulder he pointed out the straight line. Here you start on a flat pad and a half ledge. Cross into a good pocket with you first three fingers on your left. Slide into a pocket with your last three on your right then make a dynamic throw/bump off crappy feet to a tiny half pad three finger crimp. Bring your left to a tiny sloping pinch after throwing in a left heel. Bump. Scream, move with your right to an even smaller crimp that begs to tear into your precious fingers. Bump haha again into a crack system. cross with your left higher into the crack system Toe into a small pocket with your right quick move with your right farther up the crack. A couple more pumpy hand movements and top out. First Ascent. I was so excited. I think this problem is hard really hard. But the most exciting part was doing it. Second- I love naming it. It's still special to et to name things being that I haven't done too many first ascents and like this one the ones that I do are hard. Dan told me I need to name it Pookster. Haha after my girlfriend Amanda called me that the crap has not stopped. So Pookster it is haha. And I think it is a solid 11. Pookster(V11) So sick