Saturday, July 31, 2010

touchy topic

So along with a crashpad from my girlfriend for my birthday i also received a little trip to lander. So the first day I wanted to try my luck on rodeo free a 14. I thought it was possible. I was running warm up laps on it until bam, rip.

I tried again but the tape just made it a no go. sad. So instead of fretting I instead worked on getting psyched for the next day. And I did. oh I did. I was so psyched to go and crush and I went warmed up jumped on a 13 attempting to onsight. locking off on a 2 finger some pops happened. So now I have time off. Unsuccesfull trip. though Dan was impressive and worked that 13, When I was a young girl I had me a cowboy, all the way to the last bolt. But we had all lost psych a bit. next time.

Monday, July 26, 2010


power power power power power power power power power power power power power

Sunday, July 25, 2010


Yah so hot hot heat. i'm up for what I now know as the Alpine Start. haha I'm uneducated. Get it while it's sticky. The route has been feeling great. Last time I made a little more progress. Now I just have to push it that much more. But today is also threatening me with hotter temps. Live with it. I guess haha. Energy is flowing from me. Now I just need to focus it.

Friday, July 23, 2010


So Ten Sleep was semi-bummer. I went with my uncles which was cool. We climbed at a slower pace than when it's Manda and I. I was fine with that. The only thing i once we got to my route.. Rain. It was fun though. My uncles loved it which really made the day for me. i was worried about leading them to a dissappointment. Today I'm gonna have a nice early morn sesh. Grim Ripper is in my grasp. I just have to clench down. Preferably sooner rather than later haha

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Freaked out

Summer is running out. my dad still hasn't helped me with the wall. i am freaked. Besides that progress yesterday.. new high point. Today Ten Sleep. Climb while you can. Sucka. aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Polytheistic Religion of Climbing

So I been working on the grim ripper proj. Not getting anywhere on it really. though hopefully today I do. Maybe send? Ahh it's so hard. The moves
Just shut you DOWN. It's been what I've been going to and working on since my last Ten sleep trip. The movement on the route is beautiful. The problem is a mastery of compression with a minor in expansion. So challenging. The first couple of moves probably come in at v7 or 8. then you hit a v10 move. then v(way beyond me) and another and a couple v10 moves then v8 finish. rough. I'm still pretty psyched though. And today is my birthday so I will be wishing for serious birthday luck. Besides that the coolest new thing I've jumped on was the low low start to lewis town pharmacy. A cool problem Clint showed me. I think it clocks in at solid 9. Clint, during my solitude, has been crushing. He sent this thing on the wretch.. a route I can never remember the name of that I think is a 10. He's climbing strong. Now he needs to get on the sit v11 and crush. I just realized if you compare that 11 to some of the things i've done I'm sandbagging. Power to the People. I never want to grade too high.
Today I'm also gonna go check this new cave out next to dragon force (ps new line on dragon force harder than the others). This cave is sick although back breaker rocks are numerous, the chossy juggy stuff has been climbed. but the real potential awaits in the nice rock. Small hold. Multiple lines. Psych. Day of SEEEEND. Make a prayer to the climbing gods. Dear Climbing Gods. May we send.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Sicky Gnar Gnar

After a shaky ride in the ol' red suburban we had made our way to Ten Sleep. The hike up all the way to the Superattic was absolute fun as always. Amanda jumped on a 9 for her first lead ever which was super cool because she didn't get psyched out up on route. Then we made our way to the Great white Behemoth a 12b I had done last time. Gave a warm up lap then waited....
After sufficient waiting I jumped on He Biggum. Sadly though it was still in the sun so at one point I just couldn't see where to go. That run ended up just being one to hang the draws. I then watched Dominick Speranza jump on great white behemoth. He made it to the top and had it figured out. Since he's more of a boulderer(?) he was pumped silly. I then hopped back on He Biggum and sent. Oh so sick. Then I sent Canadian Jackhammer second go. I'm so stoked for ropes now. bouldering doesn't even have extreme appeal now. but come time it will. Besides I'm going bouldering today.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010


Ten Sleep. Again today.
Lander was amazing overall met up with old friends. I consider them friends at least although they might think of me as some little kid. Amanda did amazing. She is willing to get on stuff way over her head which is a huge accomplishment. I on the other hand am still scared to take lead falls on featured or not so steep terrain. But I am doing better I took some 20 foot whippers, scary ones cause you fall alongside this huge rock. I met Jonathan Siegrest and Paige Claassen. It's really col that people like that (sponsored) are not al big and bad. they climb with the normal folk. Also met Joey Kinder. Just fun weekend. Managed to throw the stick on four 13's. Not quite a 14 though I will be going back before summer's end to deal with that unfinished business. But for today Ten Sleep. Bomber

Monday, July 12, 2010

Lander my dude.. ICF

So umm best vacation ever. Ya. I went with Manda which made for an amazing time. The first day we got there we bought our tickets and a guide and ran off to the Rodeo Wave. The wall has many hard routes in just one little area. After onsighting the most challenging 12a ever we're off to the wave. It just so happens that Leif Gasch was at the rodeo wall along with the now infamous Ronnie Jenkins, the sicky gnar gnar FiveTen rep. I found my first project Atomic Cow a 13d. This was my goal, to climb a 13d. That day I was unsuccessful, the next day I made it though. Ok not feeling like typing I'll do more later haha bye

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

I don' reed guud

Ten Sleep is where I seem to only climb now. I went friday, haven't climbed since... wazzup wit' dat. Work that's what I have worked 8 9 hour shifts in the last 9 days. I'm 15... What the eff!? I'm really anal about my climbing. any time off I can literally feel strength seeping from the pores in my skin. Evaporating with my sweat. AND I HATE IT. If I can't make going outside work i will train on my hangboard. That sucks. Sorry about the ranting. Now the fun stuff. double whammy.
Last time in Ten Sleep I ran into quite a few grumpy couples. The first ones where Amanda and I wanted to climb first. We get to the insect corner, we ask is this the insect corner? Yes. Can we climb here with you guys? Well There's two routes here and 5 of us.
Really I mean c'mon. Share. So Amanda didn't get to climb until way later in the day. I had to warm up on great white behemoth a 12b. That hard of a route should have a label next to it saying not for warm up. Some how I onsighted it. That was like psych oh yeah. Then i wanted to jump on incredible horsecock or he biggum fucked. but both were in the sun at the time and draws were already hanging on Hellion(except for one) so i was like screw it I haven't done this yet. Sadly no onsight haha. But i did do it in three trys. I love this route. three time better than Heart, Balls, Swagger. Beautiful line. No not three times better thats a lie. I only say that because it's my most recent route. By then He Biggum was in the shade. so I worked it. NO success that day. I was too drained after Hellion. So I worked it to the top. Next time I think it's possible. But I have a different route I really want to do next. The 13th if Kevin doesn't bail. But now off to lander for 5 days so sick so sick. International Climbers Festival. I love climbing. No doubt.
Outside climbing man. so much better than comps. I like comps, but outside- it's the Super-Love Bliss Machine.

Friday, July 2, 2010

The FA

GEtting a first ascent leaves me with mixed feeling. I love that exploration into the unknown. Questioning if the problem really is going to be possible. But there is a downside for me. Once the route is done I feel like I need to rate the route. When I do this I generally underestimate to be safe, but I would rather not rate it at all. Why I do is because I have been looking to get a sponsorship. If I don't grade the problem i worry I won't recieve recognition.. blah bitty blah. So I did That other Dragon Force project Monday. I'm gonna call it Fossilized Dragon Poo(FDP). And say it's a V10 because I feel no one could argue to down grade. Isn't it funny how so many of the things I do I rate 10. I'm scared to go higher. I was thinking about 11 for FDP which would be cool. I need someone else's input. Well just some thought. Come climb in cody anyone(who doesn't trash the area haha).