Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Open that Door!

I am the king of indecisiveness. So many times, I have thought, "I should make a blog post." And then, the negative nancy within my head asks me, "What on earth do you have to tell?" The honest truth would be not much. However occasionally I do have some words that I find worth sharing. Also this does well to explain the mass quantity of time between my posts.

So, the rest of my summer was spent in Europe. Europe was awesome, but there was one major problem, an extreme lack of climbing. I climbed in a gym in Innsbruck and Interlaken. We also managed to go climb outside in Interlaken for an hour or two. Super massive, beautiful, granite faces. Of course, I was humbled and sent away after being put in my place on an 11c. Moments like that made me want to leave Europe or climb every day there. That is bratty. But, climbing is number one. I would kill for climbing: not the sweetest thought. The highlight of the trip was Paris because I was able to go by train down to Fontainebleau.

In Font., my time was spent at Bas Cuvier (pronounced without the s and r). Bas Cuvier has rolling hills littered with innumerable boulders. While there, I managed to put down Biceps Mou, an awesome 7b. The last day of climbing, we (parts of the family and I) took a taxi to Bas Cuvier. I asked for a calling card and received one that way we would be able to take a taxi back to the train station. After a day of climbing. We went to the parking lot and tried to call the taxi. Number showed invalid! So, we walked back to town. This took approximately two hours. Oh the things we do for climbing.

Now back in Wyoming, I have been seeking my ever so elusive strength. To gain it back, repeats are the name of the game. One day, I decided to approach a circuit competition style. With four hours, I was going to attempt a repeat 10 different V8's.
The list went as follows:

Deadman's Harley
Ripper Extension
Something About Bob
8000 Beats per Minute
Honey Beaver

I managed to do this with approximately 7 minutes to spare.

Other than that, I managed to do a link-up of Kaiya (Spelling?) into Hiya. This may or may not be a first ascent. I think it was 9 or 10ish. Super fun and techy. Although, I could only work the route for a couple tries a day unless I took a break otherwise my knee began to hurt. If it has yet to be named, I knight it Dragonfly's Dance. If not, oh well.

The second route would be a new one on the Wretch. This route starts up Riding a Deadman's Harley (11) and follows a new route across the face that moves from the start of Deadman's Harley (8) to the end of Wilford's Wretch (6/7). This route is probably 10 or 11. We will have to wait for someone else to decide. Probably a ten, a beautiful one at that. As with the theme of the boulder, I personally will call the route Green Glass Door. This route is beautiful and covers a large distance on the boulder. Hopefully someone else does it soon.