Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Joe's Valley

More to come.. but it happened. oh yes it did

Thursday, March 18, 2010

A thanks?

I wanted to say thanks to the people that inspired me to never give up on climbing, who were always there to push me a little harder yet always back me in a positive way. Some people at the top of that list are my Mom-Rene, Dad-Laurence, Aaron Mulkey- truthfully if not for him I would be absolutely nothing, Mike Snyder- nobody wants to be stuck in the gym forever right, and Leif- my idol (from the sounds of things he's living the dream). Then there are the many other climbers from Cody that have influenced me and also the climbers pushing the limits worldwide that inspire everyone like Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, and Adam Ondra. The company that keeps me supplied with the neccessary: La Sportiva.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Satan's Soul

After a lot of hard work, and support from people like Mike and the climbing posse I finally sent my project. Here are some pictures taken by Aaron Mulkey-

This route is on a completely different level from all the other routes I have done. BJ Tilden who had worked on the route before said it was on par with all the other V12's he had done if not harder. So being that this is an FA I was left in the awkward position of grading it, and naming it-how cool. I decided that Satan's Soul was a fitting name being that it was on the Hate Satan Boulder and V12 a proper grade.- more later.. peace.. so sick

Sunday, March 14, 2010

It's not the end, only a new beginning.

My life was a near perfect synonym for chaos recently. Ok, well not that bad. Just I wont be saying it was that good. I mean how would you feel if your climbing gym was torn into pieces right in front of your eyes. I have to move on. This was a huge hit for me. I know that now days lots of older climbers diss on the kids that sprout from the gym, so I know it may possibly be me that that's against but I love the gym. It gave my life meaning. Going into sixth grade I was a little chub. After 4(maybe 5) years climbing really has made a big difference in that. Climbing definitely hasn't just been a physical improvement. Most definitely not. It has taught me to be persistent, to not give up and give it that extra burn. It has done nothing but better me, and I am unendingly grateful for that. Haha well there is one thing, it made me a tad bit obsessive you could say. I could tell you bout the extravagance of climbing for pages but I will save you. Instead we can talk about what this means for me because thats what we are here for, it's my blog, riiiiighT?
After Nationals I took a week off gained some weight, ate some girl scout cookies(two boxes in one night), and took a chill pill. The weather was rather frigid so getting back to climbing meant finding somewhere besides outside or the gym to climb(heating bills are for sissies). The only option I was aware of was Dylan Etscorn's garage gym. Nervousness had kind of always preceded the idea of asking the older guys to let me into their circle though. I finally managed the nerve to ask.
And for those guys letting me join them all I have to say is I owe them a million favors and what not, though I do prefer they don't ask them of me. Tuesdays and thursdays have been boulder with the big boys nights which I have absolutely loved the experience of. The crew the first night I went there was huge, I can't even remember everyone that was there. But 10 people in a rather small garage is crowded. Really crowded. Since then there has been a more consistent smaller group consisting of Dylan, Mike Snyder(, Clint Cook, Bryant and Matt Hall, Dan Miller, and Jason Litton. Now with those I was also doing some intermittent hangboard training and some other little tidbits I picked up from old climbing magazines.
Another little thing I might go off on now is climbing magazines quality. You look at the ones from the late 80's and 90's and then you look at the nows and your just like "what haaaappened?" Those older ones are filled with exceptional articles about the limits being pushed, medicine, and training. Rock and Ice and Climbing just don't seem to be put out on the level they use o be. Ok enough negative, I'm sorry.
Once the weather was nice enough I was like now I can train at the gym too super sick, before it went down. I went there one day before school was like wow my skill really went down. My butt was handed to me on a golden platter, I was having so much fun though. You appreciate things like that more when you don't have them for a while. The movement felt beautiful. And I even was going to finish it off with some training. Thats when it hit the fan. The lady who owns the building came in and freaked the eff out. She revoked my key. From there it has just gone down the hill, into the gutter, out the drain, and into the sewer. The weather was escalating in temperature though. So I made a trip via bike out to check the possibility of climbing after school. Verdict was not enough light. That weekend I traveled to Missoula to see Manda which was super fun and as always depressing when it came to an end. Since then I have made it outside for climbing twice and once just to be out there, silly cause I was freezing. Hate satan is almost a-go. Almost Garrgh.
Spring break shows signs of Joe's Valley. oh yes. Any one with advice feel free to give. And anyone with advice on training even more free to give.
Till next time.