Monday, July 22, 2013
A week back Charlie Barron and I, on a moments notice, drove down to Mt. Evans on a Tuesday at 4:30 PM to climb. Arriving at Echo lake around 2:30 AM, after having done some late night grocery shopping, we kicked the pads out of the car and crashed in the back of my Subaru. Our prime choice of sleeping location was due to the lake's prohibition of overnight camping (the only type of camping?). Waking up the next morning, I was stoked to already be positioned at the trailhead. We kicked it off, and proceeded to hike the moderate 2.5 miles to the boulders. Day one consisted of Charlie and I climbing a V6 on the Bierstadt in entirely polar styles... he just jumped. Then Charlie jumped on Bierstadt (V9) and oddly did not crush it. It was even more surprising due to the fact my last trip out here, 2 or 3 weeks prior, I had managed to do it in 5 or less tries. Charlie, only slightly fazed, went on to destroy the Dali (V8) quickly. I had done this route in the fall of 2012 and was glad he punted it out just as easily. Next we both completed this silly campus V9 on the boulder with Seurat. In addition to this, we completed Seurat, a deceptively difficult V8. __________________________________________________________ I was also very close to sending Clear Blue Skies (V11). The last move. __________________________________________________________ Day 2 Charlie and I were wrecked. We tried to send Gorillas in the Mist. Every move was worked out, just no linkage. Also of note, The previous time I was at Mt. Evans, I managed to complete Public Execution (V10) quickly. __________________________________________________________ After the hike out, we drove to Lander WY, and once again arrived at 2:30. This time it was raining. Charlie somehow passed out comfortably in the passenger seat, as I shifted uncomfortably in the driver's seat. Around 5, I was pissed, but it had stopped raining, so I set up my tent and slept in it until 8. With minimal sleep, Charlie and I just meandered for a day, friday the rest day, Come night however, and it was game on. Charlie tied for 2nd place in the dyno competition with Matt Fultz, being barely edged out by Ethan Pringle. __________________________________________________________ Photo credit to Danny Baker __________________________________________________________ Next will be climbing in Lander the next two days.
Monday, July 15, 2013
The last year has been what I can hopefully call progressive. I feel that having a semi-functional, the school's, gym year-round was of benefit to me. If I'm not mistaken, and in accordance with Charlie's views, I am stronger. Thank god. Since the summer after sophomore year of high school, my progress in terms of climbing has felt dismal. Grade wise, I have improved none at all. But maybe, I've just been looking at it all wrong. This lead me to a re-evaluation many of the first ascents I've completed in Cody. Opening my eyes to a more objective critique of many of my first ascents has come, first and foremost, from traveling to other areas (not just Joe's Valley), and another person sending many of my routes (Charlie Barron). Many of my routes need downgrades. Thinking back... Armageddon Savior is a 10, not an 11. Green Glass Door is a 10, not an 11. Hate Satan is an 11 or 10/11, not a 12. Dope is Chrome aka Grim Ripper is 11/12, not 13. Heart of a Masochist is a 10, not 11/12. Pookster is a 10, not an 11. The stand start on Pistol Whip is an 8. Approaching Infinity is an 11 or 10/11. Routes that we should all consider accepting the downgrade on: Riding a Deadman's Harley: v10 Deadman's Harley: v7 Studs: v6/7 or 7. When Life gives you Lemons: v7 or 8 Tribal Vibrations Stand Start: v8. Spear Chucking Baby Throwdown Ho-Down: v10/11, previously v12. And potentially v10/11 or 10 for Tribal Vibrations. Please nobody take any of that offensively. I stand entirely behind the first part, being that they are all FAs of mine, and for many of them, this has been a process of bouncing thoughts between Charlie and I after having traveled to many different areas. As for the second part, I feel that these are adjustments so Cody is not soft in comparison to other areas. Give me another day or two, and I will actually update on my climbing. First and foremost I've has two fantastic days of bouldering at MT. Evans this summer. Similarly, two even better days of bouldering in Lander WY. I've almost completed one of my Cody projects.