The Fantasy

I used to fantasize about sex. Things changed. I fantasize about climbing.
The moves run laps in my head. The brilliance of the possibility. The idea I might be able to take the moves combine them and find the way to completion. Tomorrow feels like a lifetime away. Like I am waiting for the most amazing moment in my life. All that awaits me is another route upon which I draw my life force from for the time being. It is constantly inspiring me. It is nothing new. Yet something I have never encountered in my life before. Climbing's inspiration it lends to the soul is unexplainable.
The summer brings hope for me. I have much to do. Much to accomplish. I plan to climb to my limit. As much as possible. As hard as possible. Quite frankly the developed routes are running slim for me. This summer will involve pushing the limits of Cody bouldering as far as I can. With Satan's Soul I have already set the summit at a higher point. My goal is to keep pushing the limits farther and farther.
Another note upon which to remark is Dan Moncur. A climber originally from Casper, Wyoming who is now going to college in the nearby Powell. His winter was not filled with climbing being that he didn't have access to much of a gym anywhere. No one really did. But now that he's back on the rock he is psyched. And crushing. We have been going out when he has had the chance and he has already started putting to rest some of Cody's hard problems. Yesterday he walked up the super crimpy Hot Buns Stuffed, V9. I was blown away. An incredibly impressive send. I can't wait to keep climbing with him and see what else he might put down this summer.

Joe's Valley?

I've never been good with this. Recently I've been climbing before that spring break in Phoenix with my grandparents. I just had a 5 days in a row climbing spree. How amazing is that? So amazing. But back to Joe's. I caught a ride down there with some Helena(MT) climber's, the Speranza's, so the trip in total was made by myself, Dominick II(the dad) and III(son), and Duncan Ellis. The first night we slept there was semi-hell for me. I have rather poor circulation and during a cold night it shows. I spent most of the night awake trying make sure my toes didn't fall off and just tried to keep relatively warm. Our first day was going to be spent at Area 51. Worries fluttered about me when I thought of climbing and my lack of sleep. We arrived to the boulders about ten-ish the sun beating down on our backs. I quickly stripped down into my capilene. After warming up on a boulder I neglected to find the name of we moved on to Resident Evil. The problem was a wee-bit hard haha. It took a good many goes goes but i finally sent it. Black Lung, the thought of the climb had always excited me. I wanted to try it with my all, but I felt that with this trip I wouldn't be able to do it at all. I tried it a few times though. I think given another year and maybe a couple days there the send wouldn't be to hard to do. Dominick sent the V8 that was a shorter version of resident evil. But we decided to move on for the day. We drive to fingerhut. Now talking about this it seems like we went to Resident Evil climbed and left all within a tiny time period. But oh no we didn't, it was time consuming. Fingerhut was not a-go our tips were shredded so we moved onto the scrawny and brawny boulder. Everyone else was pretty much psychless by this time, except me. I flashed the route called Not so Brawny, I think that's its name but the crimps on Scrawny and Brawny felt like tiny little needles poking into my hands by this time. I bit through the pain and did the first move matched but then botched my sequence. Sadly I left this route undone. We returned to camp tired and ready for dinner. Once night approached we happily made our way to bed.
The next day was started later being that we were tired. Our first stop was the boulder with they call him jordan. Myself and Dominick dispatched Wills A Fire but after that they call him Jordan felt just like to much dynamic movement and our guides gave us no clue as to what the routes were on the left most side of the boulder. We made use of our time and instead of being squabblers we made our way onto the riverside area. The angler was done by all. Myself and Dominick worked Feels like Grit. Talk about hard. That took my all but finally I found myself to the point of topping out. Dominick was psyched but couldn't manage to piece it together. Up the hill to Big Joe was our next destination. This boulder is huge. I did Big Joe in two tries then gave Nerve Extension some all out goes. Dominick and I also tried smoking joe from the start a couple times but he and I quickly reverted to working Big Joe and nerve Extension respectively. It was late when we called it quits and time to return to camp.
The third day was a rap up day. We were all trashed and knew today couldn't last long. I think next time I want to take a week trip where we have 2 on 1 off 2 on. The other days would be travel. First we went back to area 51. Dominick wanted desperately to do Resident Evil. He impressively did it in like 4 tries that day right once he did that we were outa there and went back to Big Joe. In two tries I did nerve extension. Super psych and then after a coupe tries I did smoking Joe. Super duper psych. DOminick also did Big Joe. Every one was ready to leave here now no one else was down for climbing more. But we went to the boy size area. After letting Dominick's dad get on some slab we tried boy size. Hard as crap was how that felt. I almost almost almost had it but I left it undone. We went to camp quickly disassembled it and made the long drive home.