The times a changin'

First off, I'm so psyched. I don't think I have ever been this psyched to do anything. All I want to do is to climb, train, and think about climbing. I want to dropout of school and climb. Other areas are calling to me. They say come climb. But I can't do that. School is a must that must be finished. Then college is a must that must be finished. Climbing is must too though. How does that work? Well sadly enough when conflict occurs between climbing and other activities... climbing wins.
This week has been one of success on the climbing front and on the school front. I have the hardest part of my prposal for building an electrical generator done. Anatomy and Physiology homework was completed. Most importantly, I trained like a mad man.
Last weekend though on sunday, my third day on, I sent the project in the newness. I don't really have any pictures; yes, I do; but they aren't amazing. This route is a four move wonder. with three definitely hard moves- the first move you go off a sloper onto an open hand crimp pinch. Making a cross way out onto a steep lip, you grab this super crap sloper. You then throw in a toe and heel to make this huge wild swing move out to another crap sloper. Both feet cut, and you make a crazy campus move to a flat ledge. From there, it's over. Just a calm walk to the lip. I feel hesitation taking over whenever I try to rate routes. Where is the person to confirm stuff for me? Confusion. Confusion. Confusion. I'm going to call the line Heart of a Masochist with a hypothetical grade of V12.
Now it has been a week or so since that day. I've climbed outside twice since then. In those two days, I found my new project. The route is on a boulder that has a V9 and two projects so psyched. Train, Climb, Train, Climb.

Loss O' Time

School= Time KILLEEEERRR. Down with school. Down with N-Tell-Egence. So despite the fact school hath been stalking me out trying to ruin my life, I have been managing. In between trips to Cedar to check out the marvelous there has been growth. I went with Drew Haman to this spectacular new area and proceeded to have one of the best days of climbing ever. We put up tons of new problems for one day. Ranging V5-V9 which definitely put me right to bed when I went home. Sleep. Sleep. Sleep. The next week was filled with hangboarding. The weekend came back and gave lift to new hope. Off to do the new for another sweet day. I finally managed to send this beautiful route that had been shunting me at the end of the last session. It is a beautiful highball with a bouldery crux in the beginning and a second crux at the tippy top. Definitely highbally, absolutely stellar line though. Perpetual Motion V9. The fun was cut short by my need to be present at my job.
I then took three days off cause of hangboard motivation issues.. this has to be common. Then went to the Newness another time. This time I had the pleasure of checking out the boulders, two, super low. So one line i think I can confirm as undone went up. A super sick v5 arete. The off to check out this crazy roof boulder Drew showed me. He had pointed out this line on the small of the roof that had looked cool but not attention grabbing. It turns out after working it Drew has an eye for great lines. Hard line. It's a true boulder problem; there is 4 crux moves then a hopefully easy top out.
Another day of training blahbbity blah then a morning to the magic again. All before noon haha. I went with Jason who has been psyched on climbing here(newness). I met Jason a while ago when the gym was open. We never really climbed together much; we weren't mean to each other, but he was kind of an unknown for me. When we climbed together with Drew in the Newness he flabbergasted me. I hadn't climbed with him since winter in Dylan's, but he absolutely crushed. He was pulling moves on Perpetual Motion with ease. So I got his number; hopefully we keep climbing together. I love it when people are psyched and just want to get better and better. He has that attitude and is willing to work for it. BOMB. Back to story- we went out, a new problem was done, sweet dynamic v4. Projecting that line some more, I found myself actually slapping and swinging of the move I couldn't stick at all last time. Awe! Such a cool line. After progress on the cruxy route front, we hiked for almost two hours scouting the boulder field. We found mild potential. Jason found this little clump of bouldering after an hour or so. This is where we found the good lines. Two, in my opinion, to be exact these boulder crisscrossed on top of each other. The lower one is this crazy slate like rock. There is possibility for breakage along with sweet route. I didn't give it much consideration, maybe a 7, because I was immediately enthralled with this other line. I can't even explain how beautiful it is. Just crimps along an angle formed by two faces of this boulder. I cant wait to try it; I need to finish up that other problem first though.
Now in between sentences I am hangboard training. I am excited for tomorrow because I will be climbing. I'm going with Jason to his project: Clambake. A supre cool route I think it V10. Maybe I'm getting soft haha cause everyone calls it 9.. I don't know if those people have actually done it though? But sickness off to work at 9. Oh and I still don't have a wall built. In between school, climbing and work I have seemingly miniscule amounts of free time. Climbing outside though- ahh the psych.