I have been training for nationals, and this weekend that just past, I went to youth nationals in Boulder, CO. This competition was weird. It was not because the competition itself was weird; I was feeling out of it.
The first day, Saturday, I went out of isolation at 4:30PM. I had spent the whole day wasting time while waiting for my time to climb. I started warming up at around 3:15. I climbed every 10 minutes or so. At 3:45, I reported to isolation in the building where the competition was. There they had warm up walls about the size of what I have been climbing on all winter. AS competitors had been told, there was limited warm up space. This wasn't a problem however; I had previously warmed up at the Spot. I went out after 30 minutes of being there.
Jumping on the first route, I quickly made it to the last 3 moves. In a rather awkward move a made it through the crux and finished it up. Although the route was probably V3, I had almost messed it up and was rather shaken. After 4 minutes, it was onto the second route. This route was quality except for the awkward-ness in the middle. I fell there once before completing the route. The 3rd route I messed up at the end and never completed it. The fourth route I had a high point where only three or four made it past that point but many made it there. I ended up in 19th place and did not move on to semi-finals.
This was rather depressing being that I had put so much time into being prepared for this competition. Now that is nigh on silly to say though, doesn't everyone that didn't make it feel that way though? Probably. I messed up and learned from it though. I haven't been on big moves like the routes had in forever. Training on an 8x12 wall frankly doesn't prepare a person for that. I own primarily crimps because they are cheap. I'm not really trying to give myself an excuse, but I am haha. This mess up was my fault. I wil be better prepared next time. There will be no mistakes. By failing, I have only been more motivated.
I climbed at the Spot the two following days. I really came to understand my weakness there. There are approximately three crimps in the Spot Gym. Ok maybe a small exaggeration, but not that big one. During this period, I felt much empathy for Alli Rainey. Alli lives in Tensleep where the climbing has an enormous emphasis on technical climbing. She has been traveling out the Red for the last two years or so(?). Here she has just been being set behind being that although she has fingers of steel (I wish I had a better description) but not the full body strength to swing herself through the air time after time (this is changing from what I read). Being that I do climb on a rather small wall to make difficult routes, I make them with small moves and microscopic hold (in comparison to the Spot's at least). This in no way prepared me for the competition. I'm just not cut out to be a thug!
That will hopefully change though. Despite my limitation, so called, I most definitely had the ability to make it into semi-finals at least; I just messed up. Explosiveness is a necessity.
Considering alternatives, I used the kettlebell today. I am trashed. The muscles that have been torn down are hopefully useful in climbing. With the rope season approaching, there is training to do. Endurance may not be the most fun, but I plan to do it.
hopefully somebody has made it this far into the post because here is the important part: a question from me to you. I know that a lot of people read my bog (mild sarcasm) but what do you do for endurance training? What are your feelings on weights? I have access to a hangboard, campus board, and an 8x12 wall.
With nationals out of the way, I am not one bit more relaxed; however, I am sad it is over. The whole process is something to love. Honestly, I need to thank my parents for taking me to places like this all the time, thanks! This time was also a little different. Sunlight Sports helped me go. I can only say thank you for that and keep working to be a better employee. It was super nice of Wes and Melissa, the owners, to help out. I was also psyched to represent La Sportiva at this comp, even though it was only for a day. As a side note, I have found the the Testarossa, made by Sportiva, is the best climbing shoe in the universe.
It is time to ready myself for the real season though. I go to Joe's Valley the 2nd of April for a week or so then hopefully I will get out for another week a week after that. Otherwise, I will soon be climbing outside in Cody again.
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2 comments:
Kerrek,
If you can flash a long slightly overhanging route like Heart Balls and Swagger with 19 clips, you definitely have endurance on your side or at least know how to get it. So that is probably not the most important issue. You, like Alli Rainey, endeavor to climb everything with control, power and precision. Yes, you can crimp with the best of them and the speed with which you move between holds demonstrates raw power. The element which may be missing is the ability to just wildly fling at something, catch the hold AND hold the swing. Ever watch Marc N. climb? You know what I'm talking about. This dynamic element is more fun to watch so route setters are angling for routes of this nature because comp viewers want to see it. Start setting routes with holds farther apart. You will have fewer moves as the real estate on your wall will get eaten up quicker making giant moves. Remember that most people will tell you to train your weaknesses. It sounds like you have already identified what these are. Hope this helps.
Nice work at the comp. They can be strange and very different from real climbing.
Next time you come through or near Laramie let me know. Some great boulders are waiting for you as is The Source Gym. Think you would really like the Source as it is smallish, but has a huge variety of holds and many hundreds of holds packed in for training. We are able to train pure endurance, power endurance, pure power and whatever else on any kind of hold. Could be a good example of how to set up a small and affordable training gym. The Source focuses on all weaknesses of all members and in doing so makes a person suffer for the better. Guess what i'm trying to say is that a massive variety of grips as well as setting/training with others helps the training variety. Both long 5.14 climbs and short v12 boulders have come from climbers training on the Source Walls.
Anyway, your welcome here anytime as is the entire Cody crew.
Good luck on the spring sends!
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