Saturday, March 17, 2012

Something worth writing about-Yes!

This past week has been fantastic. It was my self-declared Spring Break. I started it off in Helena climbing with Dominick, and Charlie came up from Billings Saturday to join.

Friday night, Dominick and I went up to Sheep Mountain. Out of everywhere we went, this was the sickest. The routes really excited me. The first route we went to Dom called a V3. ha. ha. More like five or six. It was an awesome start. Twenty feet over from the first boulder we jumped on a boulder with a project titled Black Pearl. I don't remember any other names. There was a 5/6 problem on there that I quickly dispatched; after that, Dom and I cut our tips on the Black Pearl Project. It is a two move line with an absolutely appealing look. Neither of us did it, but that line, of all the ones we climbed the whole trip, excited me the most. From there we went higher on the mountain to the Rocking-Chair Project. I couldn't do the first move. I tried. Couldn't. Dominick has almost sent the line. It should be something around eleven or twelve when it's done. From there, we went up to a line called Footloose. Luckily, I finished it up right as darkness was taking over, and the night was over.

The next day, Dom and I went with Luke Evans to somewhere near Homesteak Pass down by Butte. Charlie met us at the stop, and together we hiked into the woods. All of us jumped on Montana Beef, and all of us were SHUT DOWN. Dom managed to eek a send out of an 9, which I do not know the name of (prep. ending!). We also jumped on an arete project that I would sometime like to go back and do.

Day three, Charlie, Dom, and I went to the Schoolhouse Area. Charlie destroyed. Dom and I cried. Well I guess I cried; I was so far behind both of them that day.

Charlie's list:
The Playpin V4 Flash
Unknown V6 Flash
Go Fish V7 Third try
Shot Hole V8 Second try
Private Property-Line of Least Resistance V7
Cannibalistic Teachers V9 FA

Dom climbed the same routes too.

Charlie went home that day. I stayed the night hoping to go back to the proj in Butte, but when the next day came, I felt so tired. So, I pussed out.

The, Bang-Dang, I was in Cody, and not climbing the previous day was totally worth it...

I went to the boulder propped up by a tree on the way out the Northfork. Turns out there is cool stuff on there. I started towards the right using the arete, went up a couple moves and crossed across the face. Then, I did it without the Arete. I think without the arete it's like an eight. With the arete, it is probably a 7. Then, I climbed in Stonehedge and went up to Gucci.

Wednesday, I went to Land Beyond for the first time.

Thursday, I went to Bush Draw and then Back up to Gucci.

Saturday, Stonehedge for footage and then Gucci.

The routes (they'll have an X by them if I have done them previously) I have done this week are as follows.

Day 1:
Blackbeard V5/6
Footloose V9

Day 3:
The Playpin V4 Second try
Unknown V6
Go Fish V7 Second try
Shot Hole V8
Private Property-Line of Least Resistance V7
Cannibalistic Teachers V9 Third Ascent

Take time to compare my Day 3 list with Charlie'... I tied... well not if you count flashes. dang.

Day 5:
Unknown V7
Unknown V8
X Shyza Shyza V7
X Snytonga V9
X Finger Paint

Day 6:
TNT V7 Flash
PBX V8 Third or Fourth try.

Day 7:
X The Incumbent V7
X Cherry Tree V8/9

Day 9:
X Finger Paint
X Snytonga
GUCCI GUITAR V10

This is huge. For the past three years, I have jumped on Gucci at least twice per year. This has been the hardest route in Cody for me. Something is terribly difficult about it. I would up-rate but I don't know if that's approved of 'round these parts. I did manage to video many of these climbs this week, well the ones in Cody at least. I am concerned about Gucci's video though because I became flustered while trying the route and thus dispatched my clothes-they were annoying me-and I climbed the route in boxers. I don't know if that is public material.

Good week, and there is still tomorrow.

2 comments:

wyclimber said...

Though I have never done it, I would agree Gucci is a total sandbag at V10. Props! May be the 2nd ascent.
I think the climb on the West Face of the Tree Limestone Boulder is a V7.

Leif and Lindsay Gasch said...

If memory serves, the "tree limestone" boulder V7 was first done by Karn P. and called The Placenta.