Monday, July 15, 2013
Time to actually make a post.
The last year has been what I can hopefully call progressive. I feel that having a semi-functional, the school's, gym year-round was of benefit to me. If I'm not mistaken, and in accordance with Charlie's views, I am stronger. Thank god. Since the summer after sophomore year of high school, my progress in terms of climbing has felt dismal. Grade wise, I have improved none at all. But maybe, I've just been looking at it all wrong. This lead me to a re-evaluation many of the first ascents I've completed in Cody. Opening my eyes to a more objective critique of many of my first ascents has come, first and foremost, from traveling to other areas (not just Joe's Valley), and another person sending many of my routes (Charlie Barron). Many of my routes need downgrades. Thinking back... Armageddon Savior is a 10, not an 11. Green Glass Door is a 10, not an 11. Hate Satan is an 11 or 10/11, not a 12. Dope is Chrome aka Grim Ripper is 11/12, not 13. Heart of a Masochist is a 10, not 11/12. Pookster is a 10, not an 11. The stand start on Pistol Whip is an 8. Approaching Infinity is an 11 or 10/11. Routes that we should all consider accepting the downgrade on: Riding a Deadman's Harley: v10 Deadman's Harley: v7 Studs: v6/7 or 7. When Life gives you Lemons: v7 or 8 Tribal Vibrations Stand Start: v8. Spear Chucking Baby Throwdown Ho-Down: v10/11, previously v12. And potentially v10/11 or 10 for Tribal Vibrations. Please nobody take any of that offensively. I stand entirely behind the first part, being that they are all FAs of mine, and for many of them, this has been a process of bouncing thoughts between Charlie and I after having traveled to many different areas. As for the second part, I feel that these are adjustments so Cody is not soft in comparison to other areas. Give me another day or two, and I will actually update on my climbing. First and foremost I've has two fantastic days of bouldering at MT. Evans this summer. Similarly, two even better days of bouldering in Lander WY. I've almost completed one of my Cody projects.