Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Subsequent Weekend. Lander

Ina and I took a trip over to Lander for our birthdays. The original plan was one day of climbing and the second day of hiking; that way both our desires would be appeased. As luck, or the lack thereof, had it, Ina injured her foot Friday night and we were stuck with two days of climbing. Bummer! Day one, we went out to the Rock Shop. I wanted to complete the V11 which shoots out to the left after doing the first couple moves on The Giving Tree (TGT). I had fallen on the move to the lip last trip.

I campussed the V2 jug run that finishes TGT twice. Proceeded to run through the final sequence of the 11 twice, First Contact (V4). Then I jumped on the 11 and completed the route first go. It did not feel hard whatsoever. More than anything, this pissed me off. I came with 5.5 all shoved in my subaru and walked this route. I wanted to struggle for it. I honestly think this route is a V10 and TGT is a V9. They're just big moves on good holds. After this, Ina and I walked to the project on the Paralysis wall, which had shut Charlie and I both down the last trip. I managed to complete the route in 3 burns. It felt like a V7 or 8. I also managed to complete the route from the lowest possible start which adds 15 additional feet of easy climbing. In the Akasha

The day came to an end relatively early due to quick success. We rolled around in Lander for the day. I like Lander. That evening I went and played around on War Tactics. I learned that it is definitely a morning route.

Day Two. I wasn't overly motivated to work on War Tactics. I was slow that morning, and I expected it to be in the sun already. We just went and climbed at the Cabin Boulders. Ina even climbed and, most importantly, had a good time doing it. I managed to climb Honest Joe (V8). I started on the sharp crimp and threw high and left to the standstart left hand edge. With my arms at full span, I threw a heelhook in on the start crimp with my right foot. In an explosive barndoor, I caught the undercling and then powered through the two large upper moves. The route is now a favorite of mine, a redeemer of the cabin boulders, which I have thought of in contempt since my first trip there 3 years prior. Three years prior I kinda did a route called the Camera (V8/9/10). I was concerned I did not complete the route from the appropriate start holds, hence I worked on repeating it from a full sds (butt on the dirt). I managed this in 4 tries and was happy. Personally I think this route is a V8. It's one hard move that you just gotta get angry with. There's one picture of me on it from quite a while ago.

The day ended with us rushing out of there because of the Fairfield wildfire; we saw some of the first smoke.

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