Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Polytheistic Religion of Climbing

So I been working on the grim ripper proj. Not getting anywhere on it really. though hopefully today I do. Maybe send? Ahh it's so hard. The moves
Just shut you DOWN. It's been what I've been going to and working on since my last Ten sleep trip. The movement on the route is beautiful. The problem is a mastery of compression with a minor in expansion. So challenging. The first couple of moves probably come in at v7 or 8. then you hit a v10 move. then v(way beyond me) and another and a couple v10 moves then v8 finish. rough. I'm still pretty psyched though. And today is my birthday so I will be wishing for serious birthday luck. Besides that the coolest new thing I've jumped on was the low low start to lewis town pharmacy. A cool problem Clint showed me. I think it clocks in at solid 9. Clint, during my solitude, has been crushing. He sent this thing on the wretch.. a route I can never remember the name of that I think is a 10. He's climbing strong. Now he needs to get on the sit v11 and crush. I just realized if you compare that 11 to some of the things i've done I'm sandbagging. Power to the People. I never want to grade too high.
Today I'm also gonna go check this new cave out next to dragon force (ps new line on dragon force harder than the others). This cave is sick although back breaker rocks are numerous, the chossy juggy stuff has been climbed. but the real potential awaits in the nice rock. Small hold. Multiple lines. Psych. Day of SEEEEND. Make a prayer to the climbing gods. Dear Climbing Gods. May we send.

No comments: