Sunday, June 27, 2010

no. no way.

Ten Sleep
I went.
Everyone went.
Oh so sick.
Lawrence Hughes sent Crown Prince Abdullah(12d) which he has been working on like a mad man. I was super impressed because to do it i knew he was gonn ahve to pull it all together and do you know what he did- pulled it all together.
Another guy, Zach, sent Aunt Jemima's Bisquick Thunderdome(12d). hahaha.
Manda and I went which was a nice treat. Manda hasn't been so psyched on the whole climbing thing since it seems I am a tad obsessed. So I liked having her there on this gorgeous day. besides that I managed to squeak out some sendage. Alli Rainey last week, when I was there last had been working on this route called Heart Balls and Swagger(HBS). You should already want to get on. Sadly I dedn't get to see her send it that day, but she did. Which is really cool. So after warming up on this pumpy overhanging jug route I take a rather small break. Dan Moncur came, but later than I expected, so before he got there I hopped on a route called Happiness in Slavery. This pumped me the eff out. It was a 12b though so I was like ok who wouldn't pump out going up beta less. So once that was over another break. Dan showed finally two hours late. I pulled out my binoculars to stare at HBS. People climbed. I stared. I wasn't expecting much from myself as I hopped on the route. My shoulders were completely torn up from an intense hangboard sech Friday. A little less than half way, right before the crux I made a z like clip...
Little did I know, lesson learned.
I powered through the lower crux. At the next bolt the insane rope drag was made apparent. It got worse and worse towards the top. Pump and rope drag. It was brutal.
But the result was a flash. I look back right now and go... holy $%#*. I can't climb ropes. But it seems now I can. At least to some degree. Then later after doing Beer Bong an easier route. I jumped on Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle(EKV). I fell at the top I was so pumped. I let myself get lowered then Dan went up hanging a few times to the top. I then Managed the push without a hang.I've decided I only have so many good goes in me before I die. Love. Love. Love. I can't wait for next time.

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